Dale,
The Branchline kits practically build themselves the parts fit so well.
EXCEPT:
Some of the underfloor details need a little more sanding to get rid of the
parting lines. Not a huge problem unless you are as neurotic as I am.
said details also may need a scrap styrene pad under the floor to bring them up
to level or just give them a larger surface area to weld to.
Like I said about the trucks. The sideframes need to be dry fitted with the
delrin bearings,and axels in place. They should be roll tested so they sail
about 8 or so inches from a tiny touch. Just like new Genesis trucks or
Accurail's with Internmountain wheels. If you have the older wheels with the
steel looking wheels give them to somebody you don't like. IF the shiny nickel
wheels wobble when they roll don't use them either. Use the Intermountain 36"
wheelsets. Some of the shops in Chicago sell a small poly bag with 10 (?) axel
sets for $6.95 or $50 for the box. You don't have to get the semi fine .88 sets
but they are nicer and about $2 more a pkg.
Cut the brake levers back so they don't rub on the trucks.
There is a trick concerning the bulkheads and the roofs. The notch that the
roof sits in should be opened up a little more. Then you can take the roof on
and off.
I think overall the cars are a little light so add some more weight.
One complaint is that the passengers all need to have thier legs shortened OR
engineer a different weight to let thier legs fall to the floor. That depends
on weather you are going to show the car with the roof off or closed up.
The main thing about the car is the body assembles nice and square. No gaps in
the corners, no wavy floors. Phenominal detail. It makes the Rivarossi die work
look shallow by comparison. Look at American Model Builders for other parts and
google Pullman Project for references.
As far as the RTRs....haven't seen them. But it is pretty embarrasing that a 14
year old asian girl that's never seen a heavyweight car builds better than most
model railroaders. I do have a 2 bay Athearn ACF covered hopper and I noticed
the clear glue they use does tend to puddle around the attached parts which you
wouldn't see if you built with liquid cement and then painted the car like a
modeler. That production method would probably jack up the price enormously.
If I remember right, Tom at NKP was working on or had the correct ends for the
Q RPO car I built and was in RMJ. Which you're right, the ends bug the heck out
of me but I wanted to finish the car for the contest and show how close you
could come without too much work. That's my story and I'm stickin' to it.
Keep your wheels greased,
Rob Manley
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Webber
To: CBQ@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, April 13, 2007 7:19 PM
Subject: Re: [CBQ] Branchline Pullman Cars
Branchline kits are very well engineered in terms of building. They
can appear daunting at first, due to the number of parts, but if you
follow the instructions, they come out looking very nice. There are
a number of tip sheets available in various places, among them at the
Pullman Project web site and at the PCL (Passenger Car List Yahoo)
Group file section.
Branchline will be making its line available in RTR versions, given
the demise of the modeler. You'll have to pay for the privilege, the
MRSP is about $54. Given that you can get Branchline kits from $10
and up it's up to you to decide if its worth it.
The number one thing to remember, is that in contrast to the NKP Kits
- there is no dissimilar material construction - it's all styrene to
styrene joints. Some are involved, butt f you take your time a
moderately skilled modeler will find them easy. If you have
finished the NKP Kits, the Branchline kits will be welcome relief.
And, I should mention, that is NOT meant as a slam on the NKP kits -
they are extremely useful for what they are - limited run versions of
models we won't get anywhere else, except, perhaps in brass. If
10,000 models of a given prototype could be sold, they could be done
all in styrene, but I don't think that 10,000 CB&Q diners could be
sold - or 10K Q baggage cars, or parlors, etc. If they could, you
could bet Walthers or Branchline would do them. NKP puts out a fine
kit - and the only accurate version of a Q baggage car available
without going into brass (HW that is). The ends of the Trainline
cars are all wrong, as are the sides. They can be nice stand ins as
we've seen - but the NKP sides are correct as are the cast ends.
Rob: How much work are the Branchline kits? I built several NKP cars from
kits, and Frankly i'm not looking for anymore challenges like that. Can you
tell me about Branchline's ready-to-runs? Dale Reeves
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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