And, use only solvent-based paint on zamac.
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Zamac driver (and zamac anything else; the NJCB GN “tunnel motor” truck frames/gearboxes are absolutely notorious for this) degradation is a fact, and an ugly one. Zamac swells with prolonged exposure to humidity (it expands and crumbles
when that happens, usually shorting out the insulation on the right side before mechanical integrity is completely lost.) One should always check out a zamac-drivered model for shorts before buying, if possible. No matter how good a deal for a model with
shorted drivers looks, it isn’t. Painting zamac driver centers (both sides!!!) pretty much arrests the degradation.
Robert is right that the older Japanese models are heavier. They fabricated boilers out of much thicker gauge brass sheet than the Koreans did, though the late Japanese builders were already moving in the direction of using thinner sheet
stock.
I really like the Oriental O-1a’s. If you re-solder the parts decently, they stay put; I suspect Oriental didn’t have their reflow ovens well tuned for that production run. This problem certainly isn’t limited to Oriental (importer),
or Dai Young (builder), BTW. The Oriental O-1a’s run pretty well, and as Robert says, they are gorgeous and accurate evocations of the prototypes. Even better, with both Elesco and Worthington variants produced, even just a pair of them can add visual variety
to a scene.
Of great significance to me, the LMB models that I know of (and many of the NPP models) lack a backhead and have grotesque intrusion into the cab by their OF motors. That’s unacceptable to me (YMMV), and it costs a pretty penny to remedy.
That said, the LMB S-2 is the only game in town, unless you happen to own one of the half dozen early ‘60’s PFM models—and I’m not at all sure that’s a better position to be in, if your interests include detail and running qualities.
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This is a very subjective issue, Mark, because each of us has a personal line in the sand for how far we are willing to stray from reality. Not far, in my case, when it comes to Q steam locomotives. I like the
"family" look of early Q steam and nothing else came close. I'd change plans if my only alternative to a LMB S-2 was a generic plastic URSA model, even it it was state-of-the art with DCC sound.
Moreover, I like the old Japanese imports because of their lack of finnicky detail and their heavier weight compared to the later models made in Korea. It seemed parts were always falling off my Oriental O-1As, even when they were reposing in a box. I owned
several because they were more available than the LMB version and no other models came close to capturing the Q look. I also owned several LMB S-2s because nothing else came close. Nothing has ever come off my Japanese-built models.
A point to consider is how much you are willing to spend. Remotoring and regearing require competence. I am willing and able to hire a professional to do the mechanical, electrical and painting upgrades. But the cost is not inconsiderable. I own a K-2 and R-1,
both by NPP, and I outsourced the work. It was affordable because they are the only locos I need for my 1925-era Forreston branchline. Cost would have been a prohibiting factor when I was building a section of the C&I mainline several years ago, however.
The only "bad" thing I ever heard about LMB models is that the drivers were made of Zamac, rather than brass, and Zamac can deteriorate over time. I don't know if that is actually the case.
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