No, I haven't seen the new ones. I got mine several years ago, and the factory
paint was very close to Modelflex CB&Q gray, which is why I used it to paint
the outliers in the rest of the roster. I had great hopes that Tru Color would
put out a good F unit color, but now I'm a bit apprehensive that it will be
right.
I had a conversation with an importer, who told me that no matter what paint
specifications they give the Chinese, they still have batch to batch color
variation. The Chinese simply don't care about quality control.
Nelson Moyer
-----Original Message-----
From: CBQ@yahoogroups.com [mailto:CBQ@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Monday, March 06, 2017 2:09 PM
To: CBQ@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [CBQ] Painting question for a friend
Nelson, have you seen the latest
VO1000's from Bowser? The gray is
very lite. Stewart came the closest
out of all the blackbird grays.
-------- Original Message --------
>
>
> Thanks, Charlie, for the personal
> testimony re Modelflex Imitation
> Aluminum for graybacks. Gordon,
> re your F units in Modelflex
> Imitation Aluminum, to each his
> own. I hope you sprayed them
> under high enough pressure to
> oxidize the paint to it’s true
> finished color. As for Tru Color
> using the society chips, it
> sounds like they, too, botched
> the finished color of Q
> graybacks. I’ll reserve judgement
> until I see it. Too bad Charlie
> wasn’t their consultant. At least
> Intermountain got close. It seems
> that nobody else has come that
> close yet.
>
> For what it’s worth, there was a
> thread on the STMFC list re
> blackbird gray. I have ten
> factory painted models from
> Bachmann, Walthers P2K, BLI, and
> Stewart/Bowser in the blackbird
> scheme, and none have the same
> shade of gray. None. The grays
> range from a pale gray (P2K) to a
> dark gray (P2K and BLI), to a
> tanish gray (P2K and Bachmann),
> to a bluish gray (P2K) to a close
> representation of blackbird gray
> (Bowser/Stewart VO-1000s). I
> repainted the worst offenders
> with Modelflex CB&Q Gray, and
> they are much improved. While
> some prototype color variation is
> normal due to fading, tone and
> stark shade variation isn’t OK,
> e.g. bluish, or tannish tones and
> extremes of light and dark. Also,
> note that Walthers colors vary
> all over the color spectrum. It
> is a mistake to depend upon
> factory paint to be
> prototypically accurate for the
> CB&Q. Other roads, maybe, but not
> the Q. As a prototype modeler,
> I’ve found that it is also
> incorrect to assume that hobby
> paints intended for model
> railroad colors will be correct,
> and that’s why the magazines
> publish paint mixes, and the chat
> groups debate what a freight car
> or locomotive really looked like
> in the wild. Transport that to a
> model railroad, and it becomes
> totally subjective, which is why
> I said, if it looks good to you,
> you have achieved your objective.
> It may or may not be true to the
> prototype, but that doesn’t
> matter unless you’re a prototype
> modeler.
>
> Nelson Moyer
>
> *From:*CBQ@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:CBQ@yahoogroups.com]
> *Sent:* Monday, March 06, 2017
> 10:45 AM
> *To:* CBQ@yahoogroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: [CBQ] Painting
> question for a friend
>
>
>
>
> All
>
> Without getting into color
> theory, lighting variables, and
> weathering let me give a little
> personal history on the subject:
>
> After Illinois Tech Model
> Railroad meetings on Friday night
> we'd usually have a late snack at
> Connie's Snack Shop at Harlem Ave
> across the tracks from the depot.
> One time we stopped at Clyde
> Diesel Shops on the way to talk
> to McFarland, the supervisor that
> Joe Legner knew. There was a 55
> gallon drum of Imitation Aluminum
> Oxide paint in the shop and I was
> able to get a quart jar of it.
>
> In liquid form the paint was
> DARK.....
>
> I had a set of Athearn F7s
> painted using the sample... And
> they turned out almost Cadet Grey
> in color. Yuukk!!
>
> Some Hallmark N and Ho units were
> independently also misled in much
> the same manner.
>
> On the real units the paint was
> to be applied under high
> pressure....where it
> Oxidized....giving the white-ish
> tone that we like to debate.
>
> So I would not trust a drift card
> as they are not produced under
> the same conditions as a
> locomotive being painted, some
> being out of the drum dipped or
> painted under low pressure.
>
> Charlie Vlk
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
> On Mar 6, 2017, at 10:11 AM,
> Gordon Smith kc2bw@optonline.net
> <mailto:kc2bw@optonline.net>
> [CBQ] <CBQ@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:CBQ@yahoogroups.com>> wrote:
>
> --I thought Modelflex
> Imitation Aluminum was
> matched to the BRHS color chips.
>
> Yes they did. And the Dupont
> Duco
> numbers. I figured that John
> could
> comment on that.
>
> --I don't know what Tru Color
> used.
>
> I do...As I said the same chips.
>
> --I remember the previous
> threads
> about it being dark when new and
> bleaching out in the sun.
>
> Of course! All paint is faded
> from
> being in the sun.
>
> --The goal of modelers seems
> to be
> to reproduce colors that 'look
> right to them', and who can
> argue
> with that logic.
>
> And that is why there will
> never be
> agreement.
>
> Gordon
>
> -------- Original Message
> --------
> > I thought Modelflex
> Imitation Aluminum was
> matched to the BRHS color
> chips. I don't know what Tru
> Color used. I remember the
> previous threads about it
> being dark when new and
> bleaching out in the sun. The
> consensus (maybe just
> majority) was that Imitation
> Aluminum was too dark out of
> the bottle. To me, it has a
> greenish tinge. The problem
> with all prototype color
> chips is that don't scale to
> models very well because of
> lighting variables, not to
> mention color perception
> variables, and the effects of
> age and weathering. The goal
> of modelers seems to be to
> reproduce colors that 'look
> right to them', and who can
> argue with that logic!
> >
> > Nelson Moyer
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: CBQ@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:CBQ@yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:CBQ@yahoogroups.com]
> > Sent: Monday, March 06,
> 2017 9:35 AM
> > To: CBQ@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:CBQ@yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: Re: [CBQ] Painting
> question for a friend
> >
> > YES!!!! The color from True
> Color
> > was done from the Q
> societies paint
> > chips. As has been
> discussed in the
> > past...when photographed in
> bright
> > sunlight the color is very
> lite.
> > This is because of an
> additive in
> > the paint and slight over
> exposure.
> > If you look at pics in the
> books
> > that are in the snow, the gray
> > color is there. John Lee can
> > comment on the Badger
> color. Those
> > comments should be in the
> archives
> > of this list. There will
> never be
> > agreement on the color that
> > satisfies everyone. All 28
> of my
> > F's are done with the Badger
> >
> > Gordon.
> >
> > -------- Original Message
> --------
> >> NO! Model Flex Imitation
> Aluminum is not even close to
> the light gray color of CB&Q
> F units. It's much too dark.
> I haven't seen the new Tru
> Color paint for graybacks, so
> I can't opine about that. A
> Paint Shop article in Model
> Railroader many years ago
> recommended using reefer
> white with a few drops of
> black. Among the commercially
> painted F units, the
> Intermountain FT units seem
> to have the best paint color.
> The Walthers P2K models are
> yellowish, which is
> unacceptable. I don't have
> any Stewart/Bowser F units
> for comparison. If the Tru
> Color version is correct,
> I'll repaint and decal my six
> P2K F units, they're that bad.
> >>
> >> Nelson Moyer
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: CBQ@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:CBQ@yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:CBQ@yahoogroups.com]
> >> Sent: Monday, March 06,
> 2017 12:13 AM
> >> To: CBQ@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:CBQ@yahoogroups.com>
> >> Subject: Re: [CBQ]
> Painting question for a friend
> >>
> >> The Gray Backs are the F
> units.
> >> That would be Model Flex
> 193 CB&Q
> >> Imitation Aluminum or True
> Color
> >> 330 Gray #2 for F units.
> >>
> >> Gordon
> >>
> >> -------- Original Message
> --------
> >>> All,
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> A model railroader friend
> here in
> >>> the Twin Cities asked me if I
> >>> knew which paint would work
> >>> for the CB&Q grey backs.
> Since we
> >>> haven't done any painting, I
> >>> couldn't help him out. Does
> >>> anyone have any
> suggestion that I
> >>> could forward on?
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Thanks for your help.
> >>>
> >>> Scott Stearns - Zumbrota, MN
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> ------------------------------------
> >> Posted by: Gordon Smith
> <kc2bw@optonline.net
> <mailto:kc2bw@optonline.net>>
> >>
> ------------------------------------
> >>
> >>
> >>
> ------------------------------------
> >>
> >> Yahoo Groups Links
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> ------------------------------------
> >> Posted by: Nelson Moyer
> <npmoyer@hotmail.com
> <mailto:npmoyer@hotmail.com>>
> >>
> ------------------------------------
> >>
> >>
> >>
> ------------------------------------
> >>
> >> Yahoo Groups Links
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> ------------------------------------
> > Posted by: Gordon Smith
> <kc2bw@optonline.net
> <mailto:kc2bw@optonline.net>>
> >
> ------------------------------------
> >
> >
> >
> ------------------------------------
> >
> > Yahoo Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> ------------------------------------
> > Posted by: Nelson Moyer
> <npmoyer@hotmail.com
> <mailto:npmoyer@hotmail.com>>
> >
> ------------------------------------
> >
> >
> >
> ------------------------------------
> >
> > Yahoo Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
------------------------------------
Posted by: Gordon Smith <kc2bw@optonline.net>
------------------------------------
------------------------------------
Yahoo Groups Links
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Posted by: Nelson Moyer <npmoyer@hotmail.com>
------------------------------------
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