I wonder how they react to a specification of “Chinese Red.”
Thank you kindly,
Michael Matalis Downers Grove IL
And you can now find me and my fine felines on Facebook
No, I haven't seen the new ones. I got mine several years ago, and the factory paint was very close to Modelflex CB&Q gray, which is why I used it to paint the outliers in the rest of the roster. I had great hopes that Tru Color would put out a good F unit color, but now I'm a bit apprehensive that it will be right. I had a conversation with an importer, who told me that no matter what paint specifications they give the Chinese, they still have batch to batch color variation. The Chinese simply don't care about quality control. Nelson Moyer -----Original Message----- From: CBQ@yahoogroups.com [ mailto:CBQ@yahoogroups.com] Sent: Monday, March 06, 2017 2:09 PM To: CBQ@yahoogroups.comSubject: Re: [CBQ] Painting question for a friend Nelson, have you seen the latest VO1000's from Bowser? The gray is very lite. Stewart came the closest out of all the blackbird grays. -------- Original Message --------
Thanks, Charlie, for the personal
testimony re Modelflex Imitation
Aluminum for graybacks. Gordon,
re your F units in Modelflex
Imitation Aluminum, to each his
own. I hope you sprayed them
under high enough pressure to
oxidize the paint to it’s true
finished color. As for Tru Color
using the society chips, it
sounds like they, too, botched
the finished color of Q
graybacks. I’ll reserve judgement
until I see it. Too bad Charlie
wasn’t their consultant. At least
Intermountain got close. It seems
that nobody else has come that
close yet.
For what it’s worth, there was a
thread on the STMFC list re
blackbird gray. I have ten
factory painted models from
Bachmann, Walthers P2K, BLI, and
Stewart/Bowser in the blackbird
scheme, and none have the same
shade of gray. None. The grays
range from a pale gray (P2K) to a
dark gray (P2K and BLI), to a
tanish gray (P2K and Bachmann),
to a bluish gray (P2K) to a close
representation of blackbird gray
(Bowser/Stewart VO-1000s). I
repainted the worst offenders
with Modelflex CB&Q Gray, and
they are much improved. While
some prototype color variation is
normal due to fading, tone and
stark shade variation isn’t OK,
e.g. bluish, or tannish tones and
extremes of light and dark. Also,
note that Walthers colors vary
all over the color spectrum. It
is a mistake to depend upon
factory paint to be
prototypically accurate for the
CB&Q. Other roads, maybe, but not
the Q. As a prototype modeler,
I’ve found that it is also
incorrect to assume that hobby
paints intended for model
railroad colors will be correct,
and that’s why the magazines
publish paint mixes, and the chat
groups debate what a freight car
or locomotive really looked like
in the wild. Transport that to a
model railroad, and it becomes
totally subjective, which is why
I said, if it looks good to you,
you have achieved your objective.
It may or may not be true to the
prototype, but that doesn’t
matter unless you’re a prototype
modeler.
Nelson Moyer
*From:*CBQ@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:CBQ@yahoogroups.com]
*Sent:* Monday, March 06, 2017
10:45 AM
*To:* CBQ@yahoogroups.com
*Subject:* Re: [CBQ] Painting
question for a friend
All
Without getting into color
theory, lighting variables, and
weathering let me give a little
personal history on the subject:
After Illinois Tech Model
Railroad meetings on Friday night
we'd usually have a late snack at
Connie's Snack Shop at Harlem Ave
across the tracks from the depot.
One time we stopped at Clyde
Diesel Shops on the way to talk
to McFarland, the supervisor that
Joe Legner knew. There was a 55
gallon drum of Imitation Aluminum
Oxide paint in the shop and I was
able to get a quart jar of it.
In liquid form the paint was
DARK.....
I had a set of Athearn F7s
painted using the sample... And
they turned out almost Cadet Grey
in color. Yuukk!!
Some Hallmark N and Ho units were
independently also misled in much
the same manner.
On the real units the paint was
to be applied under high
pressure....where it
Oxidized....giving the white-ish
tone that we like to debate.
So I would not trust a drift card
as they are not produced under
the same conditions as a
locomotive being painted, some
being out of the drum dipped or
painted under low pressure.
Charlie Vlk
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 6, 2017, at 10:11 AM,
Gordon Smith kc2bw@optonline.net
<mailto:kc2bw@optonline.net>
[CBQ] <CBQ@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:CBQ@yahoogroups.com>> wrote:
--I thought Modelflex
Imitation Aluminum was
matched to the BRHS color chips.
Yes they did. And the Dupont
Duco
numbers. I figured that John
could
comment on that.
--I don't know what Tru Color
used.
I do...As I said the same chips.
--I remember the previous
threads
about it being dark when new and
bleaching out in the sun.
Of course! All paint is faded
from
being in the sun.
--The goal of modelers seems
to be
to reproduce colors that 'look
right to them', and who can
argue
with that logic.
And that is why there will
never be
agreement.
Gordon
-------- Original Message
--------
I thought Modelflex
Imitation Aluminum was
matched to the BRHS color
chips. I don't know what Tru
Color used. I remember the
previous threads about it
being dark when new and
bleaching out in the sun. The
consensus (maybe just
majority) was that Imitation
Aluminum was too dark out of
the bottle. To me, it has a
greenish tinge. The problem
with all prototype color
chips is that don't scale to
models very well because of
lighting variables, not to
mention color perception
variables, and the effects of
age and weathering. The goal
of modelers seems to be to
reproduce colors that 'look
right to them', and who can
argue with that logic!
Nelson Moyer
-----Original Message-----
From: CBQ@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:CBQ@yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:CBQ@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Monday, March 06,
2017 9:35 AM
To: CBQ@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:CBQ@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [CBQ] Painting
question for a friend
YES!!!! The color from True
Color
was done from the Q
societies paint
chips. As has been
discussed in the
past...when photographed in
bright
sunlight the color is very
lite.
This is because of an
additive in
the paint and slight over
exposure.
If you look at pics in the
books
that are in the snow, the gray
color is there. John Lee can
comment on the Badger
color. Those
comments should be in the
archives
of this list. There will
never be
agreement on the color that
satisfies everyone. All 28
of my
F's are done with the Badger
Gordon.
-------- Original Message
--------
NO! Model Flex Imitation
Aluminum is not even close to
the light gray color of CB&Q
F units. It's much too dark.
I haven't seen the new Tru
Color paint for graybacks, so
I can't opine about that. A
Paint Shop article in Model
Railroader many years ago
recommended using reefer
white with a few drops of
black. Among the commercially
painted F units, the
Intermountain FT units seem
to have the best paint color.
The Walthers P2K models are
yellowish, which is
unacceptable. I don't have
any Stewart/Bowser F units
for comparison. If the Tru
Color version is correct,
I'll repaint and decal my six
P2K F units, they're that bad.
Nelson Moyer
-----Original Message-----
From: CBQ@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:CBQ@yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:CBQ@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Monday, March 06,
2017 12:13 AM
To: CBQ@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:CBQ@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [CBQ]
Painting question for a friend
The Gray Backs are the F
units.
That would be Model Flex
193 CB&Q
Imitation Aluminum or True
Color
330 Gray #2 for F units.
Gordon
-------- Original Message
--------
All,
A model railroader friend
here in
the Twin Cities asked me if I
knew which paint would work
for the CB&Q grey backs.
Since we
haven't done any painting, I
couldn't help him out. Does
anyone have any
suggestion that I
could forward on?
Thanks for your help.
Scott Stearns - Zumbrota, MN
------------------------------------
Posted by: Gordon Smith
<kc2bw@optonline.net
<mailto:kc2bw@optonline.net>>
------------------------------------
------------------------------------
Yahoo Groups Links
------------------------------------
Posted by: Nelson Moyer
<npmoyer@hotmail.com
<mailto:npmoyer@hotmail.com>>
------------------------------------
------------------------------------
Yahoo Groups Links
------------------------------------
Posted by: Gordon Smith
<kc2bw@optonline.net
<mailto:kc2bw@optonline.net>>
------------------------------------
------------------------------------
Yahoo Groups Links
------------------------------------
Posted by: Nelson Moyer
<npmoyer@hotmail.com
<mailto:npmoyer@hotmail.com>>
------------------------------------
------------------------------------
Yahoo Groups Links
------------------------------------ Posted by: Gordon Smith < kc2bw@optonline.net> ------------------------------------ ------------------------------------ Yahoo Groups Links ------------------------------------ Posted by: Nelson Moyer < npmoyer@hotmail.com> ------------------------------------ ------------------------------------ Yahoo Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CBQ/<*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CBQ/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: CBQ-digest@yahoogroups.com CBQ-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: CBQ-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com<*> Your use of Yahoo Groups is subject to: https://info.yahoo.com/legal/us/yahoo/utos/terms/
__._,_.___
Posted by: Michael Matalis <mmatalis@sprynet.com>
![]()
__,_._,___
|