Hi Scott,
After reading this post and seeing your question about this item
being a single part, I went and grabbed the car off of my shelf
(still not "assembled") to check....yes the ladder and end railing
are one piece....bad news is that it is all one piece with the end
sill!! So a modification would be needed.
1) Modify the Athearn steps/end sill to accept the Walthers part..or
2) Cut off the end sill from the Walthers railing/ladder part and add
it to the Athearn steps/end sill.
Either modification shouldn't be too diffcult, just need to decide
which way to go.....Hmmm... maybe I should get off my duff and try
one or both ways myself and report the results here......Then just
tell W. K. W. that the parts were.. ummm...broken?
Greg K.
--- In BRHSlist@yahoogroups.com, "Myers, Scott V." <svmyers@s...>
wrote:
> Good information, Doug! Didn't realize the newer kits had a
laser cut wooden ladder. Maybe Dave Lotz can tell us if he can sell
these ladders separately.
>
> Regarding the end railings, your option 2 sounds ingenious.
I was concerned about how to ensure that when I place the vertical
supports in the holes, that the top of the supports would be at the
correct height as the horizontal railing. By drilling entirely
through the platform and adjusting the wire as needed, this
eliminates that concern.
>
> By the way, I did email Walthers about the availability of
buying the ladders/railings. The reply was that they "do not list
the parts you requested", but "the detail parts you're looking for
may be in a detail kit at a later time". However, I did not have the
part number yet (since provided by Charlie Vlk as "24 Platform
Railing") and have found in the past that if I had a missing part
from a Walthers kit or broke a part, I could call and get a
replacement from them, so thought I'd try again now that I have the
part number. Incidentally, can someone confirm that this ladder and
railing is a single part?
>
> Scott Myers
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Douglas Harding [mailto:dharding@i...]
> Sent: Fri 11/28/2003 10:52 PM
> To: BRHSlist@yahoogroups.com
> Cc:
> Subject: [BRHSlist] Re: Assembly of American Model Builders
Waycar Kits
>
>
> Scot
> I have the Waycar kits, unbuilt. But have built a number of
other AMB
> caboose kits. The etch brass ladders, are as you say,
fragile. Soldering is
> the only true way to go. I use the smallest pencil tip I have
for my
> soldering iron. You don't need a big iron. A 25 watt pencil
iron is only
> about $12. But the real trick I discovered is to use
soldering paste, which
> is ground up solder in flux, that I got at a local hardware
store. Radio
> Shack also sells it.
>
> Assembly: Lay out the jig, tape it down so it doesn't move.
Place the stiles
> (ladder sides) in the jig. Thread the wire through, leaving
plenty sticking
> out on either side. I just insert the entire wire and cut off
after
> soldering. Dab on a tiny bit of soldering paste with a
toothpick, touch the
> hot iron, get out fast, instant joint. As the paste includes
flux it goes
> quickly. Finish with the usual hot water and soap, followed
by paint.
>
> AMB's newer kits have a laser cut ladder. The Stiles are
laser cut out of
> thin plywood with the holes cut. Assembly is the same as
above, only CA is
> the way to go. I use a straight pin stuck in the end of a
bamboo skewer for
> a CA applicator. Put a drop of CA on a piece of glass, or
scrap something.
> Dip the pin for a tiny amount, touch to the joint. It is
surprising how
> sturdy the ladders are after assembly. I have found AMB's
laser ladders to
> be very easy to assemble, as long as you were some optivisors
and take your
> time. And they put 3 in each kit, so you have a spare ladder
it case to
> damage one in assembly. Which is nice, as I now have a stack
of caboose
> ladders in my part box awaiting future projects.
>
> The end railings are best done with brass wire. There are two
ways to
> assemble. I have had excellent results with both methods.
> Option 1) After bending the parts, I lay all the pieces out
over a paper
> drawing/template, run a piece of masking tape across the
lower part of the
> pieces to hold everything in place. And again use the
soldering paste and a
> hot pencil iron. A little practice and you will be surprise
at how quickly
> they are assembled.
> Option 2) putty the existing holes in the Athearn end beam.
Drill new
> correct size holes matching the location shown on the end
railing drawing.
> If the holes are a tight fit you can insert the wire pieces
into the end
> beam, starting with the curved/bent ends. A touch of CA will
hold them in
> place. Then thread straight wire through the holes for each
vertical till it
> touches the horizontal railing, touch with CA. Then CA the
wire were it
> comes through the hole, cut off flush after the CA sets. I
file each end
> square before inserting into the next hole to ensure a tight
square butt
> joint.
>
> As to the Walthers cabooses. If you want the thicker plastic,
the ends are
> dead on. But I don't believe Walthers has plans to sell
separate parts at
> this time. I think everything is now batch injected and
assembly in China,
> so no parts are being imported to my knowledge, just the
assembled/finished
> car.
>
> Doug Harding
> Iowa Central Railroad
> www.iowatelecom.net/~dharding/
>
>
>
>
>
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