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RE: [BRHSlist] Re: Assembly of American Model Builders Waycar Kits

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Subject: RE: [BRHSlist] Re: Assembly of American Model Builders Waycar Kits
From: "Myers, Scott V." <svmyers@southernco.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2003 10:07:34 -0600
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Thread-topic: [BRHSlist] Re: Assembly of American Model Builders Waycar Kits
      Good information, Doug!  Didn't realize the newer kits had a laser cut 
wooden ladder.  Maybe Dave Lotz can tell us if he can sell these ladders 
separately.  
 
       Regarding the end railings, your option 2 sounds ingenious.  I was 
concerned about how to ensure that when I place the vertical supports in the 
holes, that the top of the supports would be at the correct height as the 
horizontal railing.  By drilling entirely through the platform and adjusting 
the wire as needed, this eliminates that concern.  
 
       By the way, I did email Walthers about the availability of buying the 
ladders/railings.  The reply was that they "do not list the parts you 
requested", but "the detail parts you're looking for may be in a detail kit at 
a later time".  However, I did not have the part number yet (since provided  by 
Charlie Vlk as "24 Platform Railing") and have found in the past that if I had 
a missing part from a Walthers kit or broke a part, I could call and get a 
replacement from them, so thought I'd try again now that I have the part 
number.  Incidentally, can someone confirm that this ladder and railing is a 
single part?
 
Scott Myers

        -----Original Message----- 
        From: Douglas Harding [mailto:dharding@iowatelecom.net] 
        Sent: Fri 11/28/2003 10:52 PM 
        To: BRHSlist@yahoogroups.com 
        Cc: 
        Subject: [BRHSlist] Re: Assembly of American Model Builders Waycar Kits
        
        
        Scot
        I have the Waycar kits, unbuilt. But have built a number of other AMB
        caboose kits. The etch brass ladders, are as you say, fragile. 
Soldering is
        the only true way to go. I use the smallest pencil tip I have for my
        soldering iron. You don't need a big iron. A 25 watt pencil iron is only
        about $12. But the real trick I discovered is to use soldering paste, 
which
        is ground up solder in flux, that I got at a local hardware store. Radio
        Shack also sells it. 
        
        Assembly: Lay out the jig, tape it down so it doesn't move. Place the 
stiles
        (ladder sides) in the jig. Thread the wire through, leaving plenty 
sticking
        out on either side. I just insert the entire wire and cut off after
        soldering. Dab on a tiny bit of soldering paste with a toothpick, touch 
the
        hot iron, get out fast, instant joint. As the paste includes flux it 
goes
        quickly. Finish with the usual hot water and soap, followed by paint.
        
        AMB's newer kits have a laser cut ladder. The Stiles are laser cut out 
of
        thin plywood with the holes cut. Assembly is the same as above, only CA 
is
        the way to go. I use a straight pin stuck in the end of a bamboo skewer 
for
        a CA applicator. Put a drop of CA on a piece of glass, or scrap 
something.
        Dip the pin for a tiny amount, touch to the joint. It is surprising how
        sturdy the ladders are after assembly. I have found AMB's laser ladders 
to
        be very easy to assemble, as long as you were some optivisors and take 
your
        time. And they put 3 in each kit, so you have a spare ladder it case to
        damage one in assembly. Which is nice, as I now have a stack of caboose
        ladders in my part box awaiting future projects.
        
        The end railings are best done with brass wire. There are two ways to
        assemble. I have had excellent results with both methods.
        Option 1) After bending the parts, I lay all the pieces out over a paper
        drawing/template, run a piece of masking tape across the lower part of 
the
        pieces to hold everything in place. And again use the soldering paste 
and a
        hot pencil iron. A little practice and you will be surprise at how 
quickly
        they are assembled. 
        Option 2) putty the existing holes in the Athearn end beam. Drill new
        correct size holes matching the location shown on the end railing 
drawing.
        If the holes are a tight fit you can insert the wire pieces into the end
        beam, starting with the curved/bent ends. A touch of CA will hold them 
in
        place. Then thread straight wire through the holes for each vertical 
till it
        touches the horizontal railing, touch with CA. Then CA the wire were it
        comes through the hole, cut off flush after the CA sets. I file each end
        square before inserting into the next hole to ensure a tight square butt
        joint.
        
        As to the Walthers cabooses. If you want the thicker plastic, the ends 
are
        dead on. But I don't believe Walthers has plans to sell separate parts 
at
        this time. I think everything is now batch injected and assembly in 
China,
        so no parts are being imported to my knowledge, just the 
assembled/finished
        car.
        
        Doug Harding
        Iowa Central Railroad
        www.iowatelecom.net/~dharding/ 
        
        
        
        
        
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