Scot
I have the Waycar kits, unbuilt. But have built a number of other AMB
caboose kits. The etch brass ladders, are as you say, fragile. Soldering is
the only true way to go. I use the smallest pencil tip I have for my
soldering iron. You don't need a big iron. A 25 watt pencil iron is only
about $12. But the real trick I discovered is to use soldering paste, which
is ground up solder in flux, that I got at a local hardware store. Radio
Shack also sells it.
Assembly: Lay out the jig, tape it down so it doesn't move. Place the stiles
(ladder sides) in the jig. Thread the wire through, leaving plenty sticking
out on either side. I just insert the entire wire and cut off after
soldering. Dab on a tiny bit of soldering paste with a toothpick, touch the
hot iron, get out fast, instant joint. As the paste includes flux it goes
quickly. Finish with the usual hot water and soap, followed by paint.
AMB's newer kits have a laser cut ladder. The Stiles are laser cut out of
thin plywood with the holes cut. Assembly is the same as above, only CA is
the way to go. I use a straight pin stuck in the end of a bamboo skewer for
a CA applicator. Put a drop of CA on a piece of glass, or scrap something.
Dip the pin for a tiny amount, touch to the joint. It is surprising how
sturdy the ladders are after assembly. I have found AMB's laser ladders to
be very easy to assemble, as long as you were some optivisors and take your
time. And they put 3 in each kit, so you have a spare ladder it case to
damage one in assembly. Which is nice, as I now have a stack of caboose
ladders in my part box awaiting future projects.
The end railings are best done with brass wire. There are two ways to
assemble. I have had excellent results with both methods.
Option 1) After bending the parts, I lay all the pieces out over a paper
drawing/template, run a piece of masking tape across the lower part of the
pieces to hold everything in place. And again use the soldering paste and a
hot pencil iron. A little practice and you will be surprise at how quickly
they are assembled.
Option 2) putty the existing holes in the Athearn end beam. Drill new
correct size holes matching the location shown on the end railing drawing.
If the holes are a tight fit you can insert the wire pieces into the end
beam, starting with the curved/bent ends. A touch of CA will hold them in
place. Then thread straight wire through the holes for each vertical till it
touches the horizontal railing, touch with CA. Then CA the wire were it
comes through the hole, cut off flush after the CA sets. I file each end
square before inserting into the next hole to ensure a tight square butt
joint.
As to the Walthers cabooses. If you want the thicker plastic, the ends are
dead on. But I don't believe Walthers has plans to sell separate parts at
this time. I think everything is now batch injected and assembly in China,
so no parts are being imported to my knowledge, just the assembled/finished
car.
Doug Harding
Iowa Central Railroad
www.iowatelecom.net/~dharding/
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