Kevin,
Reasonably priced O5? Are you talkin wife friendly prices?? Ohhh man, she'll
kill me. I've used up all my " but honey, they're limited production" excuses
on the CZ and I still have a bunch of Sunshine kits to buy.
I wasn't aware of the new Sunset engine. I remember the batch of affordable
brass they offered some 5 years ago and the boiler or the stack was a few
degrees rotated from top dead center. It was a SF mike I think. Light on the
detail compared to the state of the art Samhongsas of the day. I never saw it
run and the owner traded it off.
The photo on the website looks like it is an O-Scale model, (the ties and rails
look beefy) so I can't say how detailed the HO version will be. The price, with
sound and brass construction, looks fairly reasonable. No DCC though, I think
they could have thrown in a decoder just to keep the diecast with sound boys on
thier toes. Maybe I will sell that extra SSS coach or side door caboose. I was
hoping Broadway would release an O-5 but they apparently think what the world
needs now is another UP engine like I need a hole in my head.
Gotta go and lay some track under the tree.
Merry Christmas,
Sincerely,
Rob Manley
Midwest Mod-U-Trak
"When building kits is a lost art,
Only lost artists will be building kits !!"
----- Original Message -----
From: marathon_rnr
To: CBQ@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, December 16, 2005 9:01 AM
Subject: [CBQ] Re: Questions about brass Overland 4-8-2 and painting
Rob,
Thanks for your comments. Do you have any opinion on Sunset's more
recent offerings? I noticed that they have announced a new HO scale
O-5 that seems to be reasonably priced (compared to other current
brass).
I am on the lookout for a P2K Heritage Steam 0-6-0 or 0-8-0.
Kevin
--- In CBQ@yahoogroups.com, <robev1630@s...> wrote:
>
> Kevin,
> My condolences. I hope you know a lot about soldering brass kits.
I have 2 of the B1a engines, one is in pieces, the other is better
both don't run worth a plug. Nice running gear, bad gearbox and
universal joints, errr rubber tubing. Nicely detailed, There are
those that would argue about the proportion and fidelity. I was once
told that the smokebox (front) had an extra course as it was a
lignite burner and hence was not a common engine. In all cases I
H I G H L Y recommend getting a copy of Brenard Corbin's
book "Steam Locomotives of the Burlington Route". There are
excellent diagrams and class histories that you would need to
determine what specific engines you would need for that area and
time.
> In my youth I made the mistake of putting the in pieces version
into my Ultrasonic cleaner to remove the clearcoat/brass paint from
the boiler. You are supposed to have a clean metal surface to paint
on, not a sloppy clear laquer coating that hides detail. The problem
is that a lot of the solder joints on older Overland models were
cold joints. They would use solder paste to attach the parts and
thier methods did not allow the solder to heat up high enough and
fuse the brass. The ultrasonic or was it ultraviolent cleaner did
it's thing and POOF, I had a kit. Not all the parts flew off, just
lots of them. Another argument for you to find a good custom
painter / builder.
>
> I don't know what level of skill you posess or how prptotypic you
intend to model but if you care you can respond to me off line and
we can discuss many issues.
> My recommendations for brass engines to purchase are:
> Sunset S4 Hudson. Has optional parts to build coal or oil burner,
all spoke wheels, solid pilot wheels, roller bearing main rods and a
Scullin(?) driver. Mine ran great out of the box back in 1980 and
still runs at some of the shows with DCC in it's belley. I think I
paid $250.00 for mine, expect to pay a lot, lot more.
> Any of the Oriental Limited O5s are great engines in all respects,
Custom Trash, err Custom Brass is not as desirable. The Toby O5 was
a legend and built like a tank, expect to pay dearly.
> Overland did a fine job on the F-2 class 080, Orientals G class
were nice too.
>
> For the money I would start with a Proto2000 USRA 080 or 060 ( DCC
ready) and work on making the tender more accurate. You can still
find or order the cokoo clock headlight casting from Cary / Bowser.
> Broadway limited has a USRA heavy 2-8-2 in CB&Q with sound & DCC
for about $250 on the street. If you model early enough you could
use them before they were shipped to the C&S.
>
> Painting is not that hard. Dismantling an engine and watching the
tiny screws disentegrate before your eyes and gearboxes digesting
themselves, thats hard. And expensive. As we say, it's all in the
prep. I've seen one of the best painters I know put a beautifully
rendered engine on the tracks and watch it drag it's sorry tender
partially around the layout, infront of adoring fans, and stutter to
a halt. All in the reassembly my dear Watson. Most of the better
dedicated hobby shops have painters that they outsource to. The shop
owner is more likely to recommend someone they do buisness with and
wo't tarnish thier reputation. They are still an outside contractor
so don't expect them to coe to your rescue when the painter has your
engine for a few months. You may have to do the historical ground
work for them, so be prepared to do some homework like what shade of
mineral red for the cab roof or what class and road number the
engine had.
> Remember too, If you plan to run that machine, remember, it won't
last forever so take it easy parts are NON-EXSISTANT. Unless you are
a machinist.
> Then again there is a lot to be said in favor of first generation
deisels.
>
> Sincerly,
> Rob Manley
> Midwest Mod-U-Trak
> "You can't beat steam"---from the RKO movie Silver Streak
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: marathon_rnr
> To: CBQ@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 12:57 PM
> Subject: [CBQ] Questions about brass Overland 4-8-2 and painting
>
>
> Hi,
>
> I am new to this group (and to brass locomotives). I am
modeling the
> late 1930's CB&Q in Illinois/Missouri and would like to get the
> group's opinions on the Overland 4-8-2. Is this an accurate
model of
> a CB&Q engine? How about running characterics? I would
eventually
> convert it to DCC.
>
> Also, are there any recommendations for a good painter for brass
> locomotives?
>
> Thanks!
> Kevin W
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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