Kevin,
My condolences. I hope you know a lot about soldering brass kits. I have 2 of
the B1a engines, one is in pieces, the other is better both don't run worth a
plug. Nice running gear, bad gearbox and universal joints, errr rubber tubing.
Nicely detailed, There are those that would argue about the proportion and
fidelity. I was once told that the smokebox (front) had an extra course as it
was a lignite burner and hence was not a common engine. In all cases I H I
G H L Y recommend getting a copy of Brenard Corbin's book "Steam
Locomotives of the Burlington Route". There are excellent diagrams and class
histories that you would need to determine what specific engines you would need
for that area and time.
In my youth I made the mistake of putting the in pieces version into my
Ultrasonic cleaner to remove the clearcoat/brass paint from the boiler. You are
supposed to have a clean metal surface to paint on, not a sloppy clear laquer
coating that hides detail. The problem is that a lot of the solder joints on
older Overland models were cold joints. They would use solder paste to attach
the parts and thier methods did not allow the solder to heat up high enough and
fuse the brass. The ultrasonic or was it ultraviolent cleaner did it's thing
and POOF, I had a kit. Not all the parts flew off, just lots of them. Another
argument for you to find a good custom painter / builder.
I don't know what level of skill you posess or how prptotypic you intend to
model but if you care you can respond to me off line and we can discuss many
issues.
My recommendations for brass engines to purchase are:
Sunset S4 Hudson. Has optional parts to build coal or oil burner, all spoke
wheels, solid pilot wheels, roller bearing main rods and a Scullin(?) driver.
Mine ran great out of the box back in 1980 and still runs at some of the shows
with DCC in it's belley. I think I paid $250.00 for mine, expect to pay a lot,
lot more.
Any of the Oriental Limited O5s are great engines in all respects, Custom
Trash, err Custom Brass is not as desirable. The Toby O5 was a legend and built
like a tank, expect to pay dearly.
Overland did a fine job on the F-2 class 080, Orientals G class were nice too.
For the money I would start with a Proto2000 USRA 080 or 060 ( DCC ready) and
work on making the tender more accurate. You can still find or order the cokoo
clock headlight casting from Cary / Bowser.
Broadway limited has a USRA heavy 2-8-2 in CB&Q with sound & DCC for about $250
on the street. If you model early enough you could use them before they were
shipped to the C&S.
Painting is not that hard. Dismantling an engine and watching the tiny screws
disentegrate before your eyes and gearboxes digesting themselves, thats hard.
And expensive. As we say, it's all in the prep. I've seen one of the best
painters I know put a beautifully rendered engine on the tracks and watch it
drag it's sorry tender partially around the layout, infront of adoring fans,
and stutter to a halt. All in the reassembly my dear Watson. Most of the better
dedicated hobby shops have painters that they outsource to. The shop owner is
more likely to recommend someone they do buisness with and wo't tarnish thier
reputation. They are still an outside contractor so don't expect them to coe to
your rescue when the painter has your engine for a few months. You may have to
do the historical ground work for them, so be prepared to do some homework like
what shade of mineral red for the cab roof or what class and road number the
engine had.
Remember too, If you plan to run that machine, remember, it won't last forever
so take it easy parts are NON-EXSISTANT. Unless you are a machinist.
Then again there is a lot to be said in favor of first generation deisels.
Sincerly,
Rob Manley
Midwest Mod-U-Trak
"You can't beat steam"---from the RKO movie Silver Streak
----- Original Message -----
From: marathon_rnr
To: CBQ@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 12:57 PM
Subject: [CBQ] Questions about brass Overland 4-8-2 and painting
Hi,
I am new to this group (and to brass locomotives). I am modeling the
late 1930's CB&Q in Illinois/Missouri and would like to get the
group's opinions on the Overland 4-8-2. Is this an accurate model of
a CB&Q engine? How about running characterics? I would eventually
convert it to DCC.
Also, are there any recommendations for a good painter for brass
locomotives?
Thanks!
Kevin W
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