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[BRHSlist] Re: "Burlington" emblem on steam loco tenders

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Subject: [BRHSlist] Re: "Burlington" emblem on steam loco tenders
From: "captmix" <tamix@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 19:07:08 -0000
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Hi Marshall,

Thanks for that info including the graphite on the fire/smoke boxes! 
That was a question I asked on the Proto 48 site. And I have noticed 
in old photos that a lot of the Burlington steamers were kept in 
good shape appearance wise. My engines will have a slight gloss to 
the boilers and tenders and the drivers and frames plus tender 
trucks will be dusty/grimy. Perhaps you may recall a Kelly Morris 
painting article in the NG Gazette where he done his engines that 
way.

My old decals are not Walthers as I stated. Must be about 15 years 
ago I bought a bunch of CHAMP decals for Burlington engines. After I 
posted I got to thinking Walthers is not right and got out my decal 
box that I haven't opened in a LONG time and saw the mistake.

I rechecked the 1927 steam locomotive lettering pages and the 
information cover sheet mentions red cab roofs but does not indicate 
a date.

Interestingly the same info cover sheet says that even though the 
lettering plan shows "Lignite" to be painted on the tender coal 
bunker no photos have turned up showing that style. But I have some 
Otto Perry pics showing just that method. Later the Lignite burning 
engines had a yellow square painted on the tenders.

Thanks again for the added info!

Tom



   
> Well, drat!  I'm afraid that MicroScale is unlikely to ever issue 
the set(s) 
> in O . . . OTOH, since they have all the artwork on computer file, 
& I did it 
> in a vector program rather than bitmap graphis, it is infinitely 
adjustable 
> up & down -  If you'll be doing more Q locos in the foreseeable 
future, it 
> might be worth asking Microscale about a custom run in O - (I have 
no idea of 
> costs or minimums, but you *might* be able to peddle the overage 
on 
> list . . .)
> 
> Failing that, you might check with Champion.  Although they have 
halted 
> production, they are still selling off old stock, and may have 
some O sets 
> left.  While their heralds are useless to you because of sizes 
(the small 
> herald is sized to the actual dimensions of the "older-power" 
herald, so if 
> trimmed to the 4" red outline, they are too small, and the large 
herald 
> remains too large), Champ has the number style correct rather than 
> using "standard Roman as Walthers does.  You'll want to specify 
the "duluxe 
> gold" rather than "bronze gold" - if still available.  I don't 
have any on 
> hand to check, but shaving down the HO "large herald" might come 
closer - at 
> which point I'd recommend checking the Microscale "Superpower" 
set - It has 
> two different sizes (I was apparently the first decal designer to 
note that 
> the 2-10-4 heralds were larger than those for the O5s and S4s, so 
you have 
> two sizes to pick from.  Trimming one of those *might* come close 
> enough . . . or not.
> 
> As for the base paint, overall gloss black with graphite smokebox 
& firebox 
> is correct for your period, as the red cabroof was not introduced 
until 
> 1947.  For what it's worth, when we renovated Midwest Central #6 
(nee Surry 
> Susssex & Southampton #6; Baldwin 1891) for operation here in Mt. 
Pleasant in 
> 1960, my late father was able to "score" actual CB&Q paint from 
the West 
> Burlington shops . . . to *my* eyes, the black was sooo black, 
that it seemed 
> to have a slight bluish cast.  This I duplicated to my 
satisfaction by adding 
> just enough B&O Royal Blue to the black that I could see the 
difference 
> between the mix and the original black while still in the jar.  
DON'T overdo 
> it, though . . . 
> 
> As you know, graphite/oil preparations used by many railroads for 
hot 
> surfaces varied a LOT!  It could range from a near-black with a 
slight 
> metallic sheen to a near-aluminum with a touch of black.  The Q 
material we 
> got in 1960 was a commercial preparation sold under the trade name 
of "Sta-
> Brite".  It struck me as being just slightly brighter than the 
gray used 
> on "Blackbird" road switchers (with the metallic graphite effect, 
of course.  
> Back in those days, I just blended  a dark reefer gray & silver 
until I liked 
> it.  Bear in mind that the appearance of graphite in pohotos is 
strongly 
> affected by the light level, film sensitivity and exposure time, 
so if you're 
> pretty much in the ballpark & it looks pleasing to *YOU*, just 
ignore the 
> inevitable critics <LOL>!
> 
> Good luck with your K-2 . . . & when it's done, be sure & share 
photos at the 
> BRHS site!
> 
> BTW - since you're modeling mid-depression, be sure and go easy on 
the 
> weathering.  Manpower was really chep then, and Ralph Budd 
believed 
> cleanliness was a maintenance procedure.  Even branchline power 
was washed 
> regularly and wiped down daily . . .
> 
> Marshall Thayer
> Mt. Pleasant, IA


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