On Thu, 31 Jul 2003 13:36:23 -0000, captmix wrote
> Marshall,
>
> Thanks for your input. I model in O scale and would be looking for
> that size. I have thought about trimming the red border to make it
> look more like the older emblems. I have a number of books and many
> photos of Burlington equipment but a clear shot of that tender
> emblem in the old days is elusive. I did note that the larger power
> did use the wide red border in the late 30's so Walthers decals
> would probably be correct for those engines.
>
> I plan on painting a scratch built K-2 and would sure like to be
> reasonably accurate. I model the 1925-1935 time period. (That's
> before my time!)
>
Well, drat! I'm afraid that MicroScale is unlikely to ever issue the set(s)
in O . . . OTOH, since they have all the artwork on computer file, & I did it
in a vector program rather than bitmap graphis, it is infinitely adjustable
up & down - If you'll be doing more Q locos in the foreseeable future, it
might be worth asking Microscale about a custom run in O - (I have no idea of
costs or minimums, but you *might* be able to peddle the overage on
list . . .)
Failing that, you might check with Champion. Although they have halted
production, they are still selling off old stock, and may have some O sets
left. While their heralds are useless to you because of sizes (the small
herald is sized to the actual dimensions of the "older-power" herald, so if
trimmed to the 4" red outline, they are too small, and the large herald
remains too large), Champ has the number style correct rather than
using "standard Roman as Walthers does. You'll want to specify the "duluxe
gold" rather than "bronze gold" - if still available. I don't have any on
hand to check, but shaving down the HO "large herald" might come closer - at
which point I'd recommend checking the Microscale "Superpower" set - It has
two different sizes (I was apparently the first decal designer to note that
the 2-10-4 heralds were larger than those for the O5s and S4s, so you have
two sizes to pick from. Trimming one of those *might* come close
enough . . . or not.
As for the base paint, overall gloss black with graphite smokebox & firebox
is correct for your period, as the red cabroof was not introduced until
1947. For what it's worth, when we renovated Midwest Central #6 (nee Surry
Susssex & Southampton #6; Baldwin 1891) for operation here in Mt. Pleasant in
1960, my late father was able to "score" actual CB&Q paint from the West
Burlington shops . . . to *my* eyes, the black was sooo black, that it seemed
to have a slight bluish cast. This I duplicated to my satisfaction by adding
just enough B&O Royal Blue to the black that I could see the difference
between the mix and the original black while still in the jar. DON'T overdo
it, though . . .
As you know, graphite/oil preparations used by many railroads for hot
surfaces varied a LOT! It could range from a near-black with a slight
metallic sheen to a near-aluminum with a touch of black. The Q material we
got in 1960 was a commercial preparation sold under the trade name of "Sta-
Brite". It struck me as being just slightly brighter than the gray used
on "Blackbird" road switchers (with the metallic graphite effect, of course.
Back in those days, I just blended a dark reefer gray & silver until I liked
it. Bear in mind that the appearance of graphite in pohotos is strongly
affected by the light level, film sensitivity and exposure time, so if you're
pretty much in the ballpark & it looks pleasing to *YOU*, just ignore the
inevitable critics <LOL>!
Good luck with your K-2 . . . & when it's done, be sure & share photos at the
BRHS site!
BTW - since you're modeling mid-depression, be sure and go easy on the
weathering. Manpower was really chep then, and Ralph Budd believed
cleanliness was a maintenance procedure. Even branchline power was washed
regularly and wiped down daily . . .
Marshall Thayer
Mt. Pleasant, IA
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