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There were two F7s still on the roster on M-Day. Both were off the roster within months. 168A was assigned BN No. 796 but never applied and 168C didn't get one. Both were traded in on SD45s.
Bryan J. Howell Superior, WI
On Fri, May 28, 2021 at 4:33 PM, popbumper1 <popbumper1@sbcglobal.net> wrote: As an adjunct question, does anyone know how many, if any, graybacks made it to the BN merger? I see so many early and post merger photos with ex NP and GN F's, but never any Q units. Thanks!
Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message -------- From: Nelson Moyer <npmoyer@hotmail.com> Date: 5/28/21 4:29 PM (GMT-06:00) To: CBQ@groups.io Subject: Re: [SPAM]Re: [CBQ] Stewart F units
Given the variation in grays, I’m glad I don’t have deal with red variations (I model 1953).
The frustrating thing to me is having to preorder sight unseen and take what you get. The most extreme gray differences were Walthers early GP-7s, which were extremely dark gray and Walthers SD-7s, which were extremely light gray. Running
those two in consist was a caricature of reality. I masked the bottom and repainted the gray with Model Flex CB&Q Gray, and now they look ‘right’. I’ll eventually do that with the blue-gray GPs from Broadway Limited.
Nelson Moyer
From: CBQ@groups.io <CBQ@groups.io> On Behalf Of
Rick Keil
Sent: Friday, May 28, 2021 2:14 PM
To: CBQ@groups.io
Subject: [SPAM]Re: [CBQ] Stewart F units
Valid points and I will add that since I am slightly color blind, what is correct? I focus more on consistency, the Walthers and Athearn F units are noticeably different to my eyes. The greys
and reds on the hood units can be quite off too, Kato to me is way too dark red and some of the greys are way off. Weathering helps, but not always.
Dave brings up a very valid point…
Color is very subjective based on lighting conditions and other colors being viewed at the same time; not to mention the effects of fading and weathering.
Also, the same paint can vary in shade and hue based on the manufacturer or the lot.
My basic rule of thumb is to go with what looks correct to your eye. Modelers do not like that answer as they, especially newer modelers, want a strict hard
fast answer as to what is correct and what is incorrect when in fact, many different variations on the same color can all be correct at the same time.
So…what is the “correct” CB&Q F-unit color on the attached prototype photos?
😉
Dave Lotz
I have graybacks from Walthers, Broadway Limited, and Intermountain, and of the three, Broadway Limited has the most authentic color. The others have a yellowish tint,
with Walthers worst and Intermountain barely perceptible. Intermountain is too white. I haven’t seen the other manufacturers F units, but if anyone has F units from all five, it would be interesting to see them lined up side by side from the best to the worst.
GPs, SDs, and Alcos in CB&Q the blackbird scheme are another story entirely, where paint colors ranges from very dark on early Walthers models to a bluish gray on Broadway
limited and very light brownish gray on Bachmann Alcos. Bowser (Stewart) CB&Q gray is close the Model Flex CB&Q gray, which was supposed to be color matched to paint chips. I haven’t seen a model painted with Tru Color CB&Q blackbird gray (the also have a
Chinese red scheme gray) or their grayback gray, but it would be interested to hear opinions on their authenticity.
Nelson Moyer
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