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Re: [CBQ] F7 Grayback Paint Suggestions for Modeling

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Subject: Re: [CBQ] F7 Grayback Paint Suggestions for Modeling
From: "'sartherdj@aol.com' sartherdj@aol.com [CBQ]" <CBQ@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2014 14:44:45 -0400 (EDT)
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Steve,
 
I won't be able to get back for the meet in Rock Island.  If possible will you take some photos of the F unit and cars you bring to the meet and post them for members who can't make the meet..
 
Thanks,  Dave S.   Tucson, AZ
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: STEVEN HOLDING sholding@sbcglobal.net [CBQ] <CBQ@yahoogroups.com>
To: CBQ <CBQ@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tue, Aug 5, 2014 10:01 am
Subject: Re: [CBQ] F7 Grayback Paint Suggestions for Modeling

 
I work in O Scale and to paint my F's I used a rattle can of hot rod primer that was more white then gray.  Then weathered with India ink and some lite tan.  After all by the time I got to see F Units they had been run HARD and put away wet too often just before going back to La Grange.
They are your units use what you think is the good color.
I will bring mine to Rock Island for a complete train.
Steve in SC


On Monday, August 4, 2014 3:28 PM, "'Charlie Vlk' cvlk@comcast.net [CBQ]" <CBQ@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


 
All-
 
Back in the 60’s I got a quart of Imitation Aluminum from the Diesel Shop at Clyde.   The “wet sample” was dark.   I had the units custom painted using this prototype paint and they turned out almost Cadet Gray…..probably why some Hallmark units came in about the same shade.  My theory is that the paint is designed to be sprayed under high pressure….and in so doing the “aluminum oxide” in the mix oxidizes and turns light(er).   I’m not a paint chemist so that may be completely wrong.
 
Using the official drift cards will also yield too dark results…..   in fact, if you could hold up a small panel painted at the same time with the same paint against a freshly painted CB&Q F unit it would look darker against the unit, even in the same lighting!!!
Color has scale and our basement lighted layouts also severely impact some colors….and unfortunately CB&Q Imitation Aluminum is one of the worst in these aspects.
 
I believe there were two “official” new shades of paint used on CB&Q F Units.   The FTs and F2s came in this color which was almost white.   Sometime during early F3 production the paint was changed and it was darker, more gray.  Apparently somebody did not like the paint or the shade and it reverted to the original color in later F3 production and continued through to the F7s.  
 
There is a video of the fantrip where a S4 brought the train from Chicago and was changed out for a K2 / Geep at Aurora.   There is a freight up on the mainline that has a F unit that apparently had some of the side panels replaced and you can see the difference in the shades I am referring to on the same locomotive in the same lighting conditions.
 
At the occasion of the 5632 Birthday Celebration fantrip to West Burlington one of the passenger Fs was in the shop and had just been repainted in the freight scheme.   To my eye then and my memory now it was pretty bright white (Frigidaire-like)  in the mostly natural daylight indoor lighting of the shop.   I remember the units tending a little towards yellow as they weathered and under bright blue skys they reflected blue as well.
 
The recent Kato F-2s were designed to match the Intermountain FTs (even though Kato markets them as an A-A set as delivered the researcher at Kato knows they weren’t run that way)  and to my eye the Kato/Intermountain color is pretty decent.  I also don’t recall barfing when I saw Athearn Genesis HO units or even the Walthers Proto-2000 or even the Proto-1000 jobs….but admittedly did not look that closely at them as they were Hugely Oversized.
 
Since the scheme weathered out there are a variety of colors to try to duplicate and you probably should pick a color photo that looks right to you and spray up some samples to look at under the lighting conditions in your layout room.  

Charlie Vlk
 




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Posted by: "sartherdj@aol.com" <sartherdj@aol.com>



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