In case you have any sign shops in the area. See if you can get 10 or 20 mil
Lexan. They use it to laminate to foto or digital prints to create interactive
signs and displays for museums. It comes on a roll and thay always have excess
they can or have thrown out. The end of a roll can give you 3 - 6 square feet.
Almost nobody recycles the stuff. There are different finishes like a frost (
bathroom windows) and gloss regular windows. You do have a lot of windows to
make, unless Shorham did them for you. I use either Aileens Craft glue or clear
RTV silicone by GE to attach my windows. No fogging, works great.
Sincerely,
Rob Manley
----- Original Message -----
From: m10000_little_zip
To: CBQ@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 7:14 AM
Subject: Re: [CBQ] Decaling Shorham KCZ
Thanks for the info. Headed to Wal-Mart to get some Gloss Coat...
________________________________
From: Rob & Bev Manley <robev1630@sbcglobal.net>
To: CBQ@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wed, January 27, 2010 12:36:50 AM
Subject: Re: [CBQ] Decaling Shorham KCZ
Yep, That's the stuff. It cost about the same for that giant bottle as it
does for a shrimpy jar of Polyscale gloss.
Future is Optically clear. Does not need to be thinned. Treat it like any
acrylic coating. The surface should be cleaned with Dawn Dish soap so there are
no fingerprints or dust. Spray in a warm enviornment. When cold it tends to
show more orange peel. Practice, practice, practice. It can run if you lay down
wet coats too soon. Sprayonly the areas you need to decal. Lets say a covered
hopper like a LO11. Completely spray both sides. Spray the upper end near the
roofwalk and the slopesheet. You don't have to gloss the roof or underframe. I
use Microsol and Micro set for the decals. Sometimes I noticed a hazing under
or around the decal. This will dissappear. This is why it's good for
procrastinators. Glosscoat and leave it alone for a day or more.
I use a Paache H with a #1 tip at about 35 PSI. I like to get as fine a mist
as possible. This stuff is about the same consistancy as fruit juice. It flows
real nice.
You can also use it to attach windows or thinks that need a clear mount. Your
work should be level, it's not a canopy cement. The model auto guys use it to
attach etched stainless fender badges and scripts to thier carmodels.
There is supposed to be a way to mix it with talc to create a flat finish. I
haven't done it yet. When glossing a flat finish freight car or anything you
may have to lay down multiple coats to get a higher gloss. Take it slow. It
goes on so clear you almost don't know how much is on the car.
Good luck,
Sincerely,
Rob Manley
----- Original Message -----
From: m10000_little_ zip
To: CBQ@yahoogroups. com
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2010 6:55 AM
Subject: Re: [CBQ] Decaling Shorham KCZ
Just to confirm, you're talking about floor polish. Over the counter, buy it
at Kroger (or your local grocery chain), run of the mill floor polish.
This stuff?
http://www.floorcar eproducts. com/floor- finish/index. asp
Do you spray it on like any other paint or gloss? Do you need to cut it? Any
other advice?
Thanks, Bryan
____________ _________ _________ __
From: Rob & Bev Manley robev1630@sbcglobal .net
I have been using Future for almost 20 years. I overcoated my Oriental Twin
Cities Zephyr with it and it has held up to a lot of handling. About 18 years.
At the time I think I used Microscale Semi-gloss finish for the final finish.
All my current work gets a gloss finish of Future for the decals and is
followed up with Pollyscale Flat finish. I haven't had any cracking or
discolorment issues.
All the other modeler gloss coats seem to yellow the finishes. This is
especially annoying on a set of FTs or F-units.
----- Original Message -----
From: Murch
I've heard acrylic floor finish actually works better than the comercial
gloss - comments?
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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