Ray;
Thanks for the description. That's interesting. I wonder what the
model airplane guys do. Rob
Ray Bedard wrote:
>Rob, the problem with the dull coat or any coat is the fact the the bright
>Alcad paint under the decal film remained shinny where as all the Alcad
>paint up to the decal was dull. So the decal with the words "Burlington"
>were a bright stainless steel under the decal, the area around the decal is
>now dull.
>
>Ray Bedard
>
>
>
>>From: Rob Adams <steamera@netins.net>
>>Reply-To: CBQ@yahoogroups.com
>>To: CBQ@yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: Re: [CBQ] Alcad paint Modeling Techniques
>>Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2005 11:28:59 -0600
>>
>>
>>Ray;
>>
>>Another thought...did you use a setting solution when applying decals,
>>and are you confident that the decals were well-bonded? Even though it
>>has a gloss finish, use of setting solution to get your decals to
>>really "snuggle down" is still imperative. I had a similar thing happen
>>to me a while back when I dull-coated over a Westerfield Q XM-24 box car
>>that I'd built. It looked fine until I dull-coated, and then every spot
>>that hadn't settled down to the paint showed like a streak. The
>>frustrating part is that I used a setting solution, but the matte Polly
>>Scale finish underneath just didn't bond the decals very well. It's
>>really maddening when you've put a lot of work into something.
>>
>>Regards, Rob Adams
>>
>>
>>Ray Bedard wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>A word of causion when using Alcad paint. I painted an E7 and it came out
>>>beautiful. I then decaled it - since it is a high gloss, I did not have
>>>
>>>
>>to
>>
>>
>>>give it a overcoat of gloss before decalling it.
>>>
>>>The decals went on and boy did it look great, and the decal film didn't
>>>
>>>
>>show
>>
>>
>>>through! Then I decided that in order to protect the decals I should give
>>>
>>>
>>it
>>
>>
>>>a very light over spray of dull, what a mistake. The decals were well
>>>protected, but the film all around the decal showed through. So now I
>>>
>>>
>>either
>>
>>
>>>will have to strip it or use it for parts.
>>>
>>>So the lession here is DO NOT use any dull coating over the decals when
>>>using this paint.
>>>
>>>Ray Bedard
>>>San Jose Ca
>>>PS: Still alive and contributing to both the CBQ and the BRHS lists.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>From: Aeolus3@aol.com
>>>>Reply-To: CBQ@yahoogroups.com
>>>>To: CBQ@yahoogroups.com
>>>>Subject: Re: [CBQ] Modeling Techniques
>>>>Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2005 00:27:14 EST
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>I would have to agree Alclad doesn't seem to notice model railroading.
>>>>
>>>>
>>I've
>>
>>
>>>>see a couple of Walthers Budd cars finished in Alclad next to my nickel
>>>>plated
>>>>brass DZ cars. The effect was pretty close to the look of the DZ's
>>>>
>>>>
>>finish.
>>
>>
>>>>It
>>>>seems the undercoat changes the color of the "stainless" final coat.
>>>>
>>>>
>>Gloss
>>
>>
>>>>black seems to mimic the nickel plating fairly closely.
>>>>
>>>>For those modeling Pullman Standard Stainless Steel cars, I wonder if
>>>>changing the undercoat color would show the effect of the difference in
>>>>color between
>>>>Budd and Pullman Standard Stainless. To me the PS Stainless always
>>>>
>>>>
>>appeared
>>
>>
>>>>more to the reddish side while the Budd appeared more to the blue side.
>>>>This
>>>>was a color shot of the Santa Fe Super Chief with both PS and Budd.
>>>>
>>>>Loren Johnson
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Yahoo! Groups Links
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>>>>
>>>>
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>>>>
>>>>
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>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
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>>Yahoo! Groups Links
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