A couple of thoughts regarding the use of "chrome" plating.
The material used in the vacuum plating process is aluminum. Now everyone is
really confused. What I am recommending is a process to SIMULATE stainless
steel. But remember that you're after the effect not the replacement. The
only thing to represent stainless steel without modification, is stainless
steel. But then we would have to know what grade of stainless..........
So aluminum is the metal of choice for vacuum plating (vapor deposition).
I can understand your concerns. Time for the test.
See if you can find one of the older model car (auto) kits that were
entirely chrome plated over the entire car. Or find one that has a lot of
chrome plating. It is better to test with a larger area instead of a bumper.
You need the larger surface area to get the effect of the eggshell finish
and how it refracts the light on the plated surface to simulate stainless
steel.
Paint Option 1
Take Floquil Crystal Cote and Floquil Flat. Start with a 70/30 mix of the
Crystal Cote/Flat and mix to about a 60/40 mix of paint to thinner, to
start. I found it took about 70/30 Crystal Cote/Flat to get to the desired
effect I like.
Paint Option 2
You can also use Testors mini spray can of lacquer gloss and a Testors mini
spray can of lacquer flat. Spray into the cap and use a 60/40 mix of the
clear to about a 60/40 mix of paint to thinner, to start.
Airbrush a light wet coat on a hidden area to fine tune the end result.
But keep in mind spray distance, air pressure, number of coats, wetness of
coat applied, and airbrush quality all affect the end result. Regardless of
the method and paint used, you have to work in increments and keep notes. I
wish I could be more specific but I don't have my paint info with me.
These methods work. They are solutions for your desired results. They may
not please everyone. It's just like what color gray was used to paint the
graybacks? One in a hundred paint schemes appear correct to what I believe
the color to have been. But I wouldn't recommend you try something that will
not take you within 95% of the desired result. That last 5% is black magic
and luck of the modeler.
I did 5 NKP Aeoluses (Aeolus', Aeolusi?). They are bright nickel plate.
Option #1 worked perfectly. I have done museum car models that have been a
combination of vapor deposition (vacuum plating) and Alclad finishes. The
parts turn out exactly as desired.
I think the problem you're having is thinking how bright and unnatural
looking the usual model car bumpers are. Or did Tyco forever embed a chrome
plated horror image? There is nothing worse than model car chrome. What I am
recommending is a premium quality plating process.
I don't know if nickel can be vacuum plated. It probably can, although
prohibitively expensive. I have no reason to believe that you would achieve
any better results with nickel.
We fire these airbrushes for effect. It's show business. We show what we do.
What's right is what's left.
Good luck with your projects.
Randy
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