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Re: proto 1000 F3 problem

To: BRHSlist@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: proto 1000 F3 problem
From: sce_inc@y...
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 23:22:26 -0000
In-reply-to: <12.b4f4581.2809a89a@a...>
User-agent: eGroups-EW/0.82
I have 4 of these completely disassembled waiting for me to get off my 
butt and finish painting an ABBA set of Intermountain F7 shells. Check 
the motor leads that are soldered to the motor, all 4 of mine have big 
globs of solder on both leads, and the motor is a pretty tight fit 
into the chasis. Could be shorting intermitantly on the frame. I took 
care of that when I had the frames set up in the mill to put the slots 
in for mounting the body shells (I hate snap on shell mounts). I 
took a long 1/4" end mill and put a slight groove down the side 
of the motor cavity. Now I have a wire path as well, so I don't 
have to worry about a pinched wire. Still have to machine the pockets 
out in the nose for lighted number boards, so they're due for another 
session in the mill.

Keith

--- In BRHSlist@y..., drale99@a... wrote:
> I have MUed a proto 1000 A unit with a pair of Stewart FTs. Tightly 
> draw-barred and weathered, it provides what my unsophistication 
allows me to 
> accept as a reasonable representation of a prototype Burlington 
3-unit FT-F2 
> diesel set. Looks good, and gives my RR a much needed prime mover. 
I run it 
> back and forth between the terminals of my point-to-point layout, 
dragging 
> heavy freights over the grades of my main. It has worked well and 
I've been 
> fairly proud of the performance.
> 
> Suddenly the F3 stopped running. Stopped completely, stone cold 
dead. I put 
> it on the bench and removed the shell and whatever else would come 
off. The 
> wiring completely baffeled me. I couldn't get down to the motor, 
and 
> couldn't even find the motor connects. I can't shop this loco! I 
need help!
> 
> DRale Reeves


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