Re: [CBQ] Painting acrylic car sides

["Gary Dobias" <bgrgbldr@gmail.com>]

I would agree with everything that Nelson  stated regarding Tamiya primer. It comes in both fine white and fine gray. I heat the can with tap water to increase pressure and also improve viscosity.

 I prime everything because I have never had a paint failure on a primed surface.

I also agree with the comment about using Tamiya Primer under Tru Color paint. Until I switched primers as was ready to throw away all my Tru Color paints.  I also do not use Tru Color thinner. I use MR Color leveling thinner and get beautiful glossy finishes that do not scratch or flake off.

Gary Dobias

On Tue, Aug 4, 2020 at 10:05 AM Nelson Moyer <npmoyer@hotmail.com> wrote:

There's no need to decant Tamiya paints for an airbrush. I think you'll find that the Tamiya nozzles are very fine, not at all like the rattle cans from Testors.  No spurts, no globs, no mess. They are comparable to an airbrush, and many very fussy resin kit builders prime with Tamiya rattle cans. Including me. The paint is very fine as indicated on the label, and it does not obscure detail. It dries quickly, though I allow it to cure overnight. If it's good enough for professional resin kit builders, it should be good enough for your work. The only down side of the Tamiya rattle cans is that the spray pattern is larger than an airbrush, so there's some waste. I haven't used anything else since I started using Tamiya primer, and I've built over 120 resin cars using Tamiya primer. The BA-19 and BA-19A cars weren't primed before painting, as they were built between 2010-2013 before I discovered Tamiya, and priming isn't usually necessary with Floquil or Poly Scale. The Walthers cars were all primed with Tamiya Fine Light Gray Primer. I have two Iwata airbrushes and one Paasche airbrush with 1, 3, and 5 needles and tips, and I've been painting with an airbrush since 1978. You won't get a better finish with an airbrush than with the can. The only reason to decant is if you want to do a small spot repainting and you need a small primer pattern pattern.

Use Tru Color primer at your own risk. I've hear stories about paint sloughing off of properly prepared resin cars in sheets, and you really don't want to use masking tape on top of Tru Color without a clear topcoat, and even then you have a 50/50 chance of peeling off the paint with the tape. Nobody I know likes or uses Tru Color primer. Good Luck!

Nelson Moyer



-----Original Message-----
From: CBQ@groups.io [mailto:CBQ@groups.io] On Behalf Of Gordon Smith
Sent: Tuesday, August 04, 2020 10:09 AM
To: CBQ@groups.io
Subject: Re: [CBQ] Painting acrylic car sides

Oh well, the quotes of your text didn't come out correct, but I'm sure you'll get the idea

Gordon Smith wrote:
> Nelson...
>
>> I didn't use the acrylic sides on my car, rather I cut styrene sides
>> to replace them. If you compare the acrylic sides to scale drawings,
>> the dimensions aren’t  prototypically correct. If that doesn't bother
>> you, by all means use the acrylic sides.
>
> I have two sets of plans. The sides match the one set perfectly. If
> you measured with a scale ruler the plans in the Bulletin, they are
> not full size S scale. They are under size. And there is a discrepancy
> in the truck spacing dimension between the two plans. 50' 2" vs 54' 2".
>
>
>   Since you want to use an acrylic paint, I recommend you either media
> blast or lightly sand the sides with #600 grit sandpaper to provide
> tooth for the primer and paint.
>
> I want to use the Model Flex for it's better adherence and the fact
> that decals literally disappear when finished. And I do prefer the darker shade.
>
>
>   DO NOT use Tru Color primer, it won't stick to resin, and it
> probably won't stick to acrylic sides either.
> I called Tru Color about using their paint. The person I spoke to was
> familiar with the acrylic sides, and recommended the light primer and
> grit blasting if I want to. So I will do the blasting.
>
>
>   The best prime available for resin and probably acrylic is Tamiya
> Fine Light Gray Primer. It's a lacquer that's available in rattle cans.
>
> I will give that a try on my next project. I'll have to transfer it to
> the air brush.
>
> As for Scalecoat, I like it for spraying, but I am reading on another
> group that it is not so easy to get direct lately, and no store here
> has it anymore.
>
> I'll wait to see what others might have to offer before I make my
> final decision on the paint.
>
> Thanks
>
> Gordon Smith
>
>
>
>
>

_._,_._,_

---

Groups.io Links:

You receive all messages sent to this group.

View/Reply Online (#60112) | Reply To Group | Reply To Sender | Mute This Topic | New Topic

Your Subscription | Contact Group Owner | Unsubscribe [archives@nauer.org]

_._,_._,_