Ken,
This is a topic worth discussion on the list. Can you tell us the
brand name of the blaster and what type of grit you are using?
Rich G.
-----Original
Message-----
From: Kenneth Middleton <
krmiddle@att.net>
To: CBQ <
CBQ@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sun,
Jun 30, 2013 5:36 pm
Subject: Re: [CBQ] Removing factory paint and
decals
I have found two methods that work to varying degrees of success,
depending upon the paint that has been used. I have used 91% isopropyl alcohol
(available in pharmacies) which seems to work well with some paints (I've had
good luck stripping Roundhouse factory paint with it). However, there are some
paints it simply doesn't seem to touch. An example I've found here are some
Walthers tank cars. I would suggest trying that first, because if it works
it's pretty easy.
What I've found most successful is using a bead blaster. I would have
been afraid it would damage the plastic but it doesn't do that in my
experience (though I tried it on a junk Athearn box car body I had around
first just to be sure). This is something I read about on the internet and it
seems to work well. I have to turn the air pressure on my compressor up to 100
psi (as high as my compressor will go). It's almost like it just "erases" the
paint. The internet site (sorry I don't remember the location any more) said
that you could even paint the models and then strip them again if you weren't
happy with the paint job. I'm not sure bead blasters are all that common. I
bought mine so that I could use it to etch brass slightly to get paint to
adhere better (that only requires 60 psi). If you would like more information
or have questions, please contact me off line.
Beest regards,
----- Original
Message -----
Sent:
Saturday, June 29, 2013 3:16 PM
Subject:
[CBQ] Removing factory paint and decals
What is the best way to strip the factory paint on a locomotive along
with the unwanted decal so you can paint it in Q
colors?
Dwight