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Try something called "ELO". From: "rgortowski@aol.com" <rgortowski@aol.com> To: CBQ@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, June 30, 2013 9:24 PM Subject: Re: [CBQ] Removing factory paint and decals Ken,
This is a topic worth discussion on the list. Can you tell us the brand name of the blaster and what type of grit you are using?
Rich G.
-----Original Message-----
I have found two methods that work to varying degrees of success, depending
upon the paint that has been used. I have used 91% isopropyl alcohol (available
in pharmacies) which seems to work well with some paints (I've had good luck
stripping Roundhouse factory paint with it). However, there are some paints it
simply doesn't seem to touch. An example I've found here are some Walthers tank
cars. I would suggest trying that first, because if it works it's pretty
easy.
What I've found most successful is using a bead blaster. I would have been
afraid it would damage the plastic but it doesn't do that in my experience
(though I tried it on a junk Athearn box car body I had around first just to be
sure). This is something I read about on the internet and it seems to work well.
I have to turn the air pressure on my compressor up to 100 psi (as high as my
compressor will go). It's almost like it just "erases" the paint. The internet
site (sorry I don't remember the location any more) said that you could even
paint the models and then strip them again if you weren't happy with the paint
job. I'm not sure bead blasters are all that common. I bought mine so that I
could use it to etch brass slightly to get paint to adhere better (that only
requires 60 psi). If you would like more information or have questions, please
contact me off line.
Beest regards,
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