Fellow Q Modelers,
I have posted similar messages re: paint removal. look them up ion the archive.
Some paints will not come off with brake fluid even if you hit them with a
shovel. Mostly the Walthers and P2K paint jobs. I stripped a 1st gen SW1 in SP
gray. Back in the day an Athearn blue box SP shell stripped in minutes with
brake fluid.
I have had success with Isopropyl alc but I would start with the 71% first and
if the paint doesn't budge go up to the 91%.
If you cloud the glass accidentally try flowing Future acrylic floor polish on
the "glass". That's an old trick from the aircraft modeler side of the hobby
shop.
Try replacing the handrails with brass detail Associates wire and Steam engine
handrail stanchions from Bowser or Cary. I have done this on one of my Baldwins
and it is prototypic.
One hazard with 91% Alc is it eats Sylvan truck bodies so beware.
Rob Manley
Retired Journeyman Stripper.
----- Original Message -----
From: estcbq@aol.com
To: CBQ@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 5:13 PM
Subject: Re: [CBQ] Paint Removal
over the past 15+ years i have used a product called Chameleon--there are
two versions metal/plastic--re-usable/non-caustic/water soluable and have had
no problems with the plastic version---done in less than an hour with no damage
i have noticed--with some of the newer paints/lettering/logos may not work as
well as some of the older finishes--Walthers carried it at one time--jim young
I am finishing up my D&RGW diesel models for the RGMHS convention in
September, and I have several from which I have to remove old paint. I
decided to try 91% isopropyl alcohol and used an old Walthers H12-44 body
and Proto 2000 SW1200 body to test it. I put them in an aluminum cake pan
and poured the alcohol straight from the bottle into the pan. I did this in
the garage in case any fumes were raised. In about 20 minutes, I took an
old toothbrush and brushed the paint and lettering quickly off the body
shells. I turned them over and let them set another 20 minutes. I brushed
the paint off and rinsed them in cold water in my utility room sink. All
paint and lettering came off easily, and there was no damage to the shells
with two exceptions. Clear glazing was clouded over and the long handrails
along the hood sides were weakened so that they developed kinks. Based on
this, my recommendation is that you remove all glazing and small parts, such
as handrails and grab irons, before doing this. Other than that, the paint
came off with no damage to the model shells.
I suggest that you recycle your old toothbrushes, especially if they have
soft bristles, and use them to remove the old paint and lettering. After
you have rinsed the shells off and let them dry, lightly brush them with a
toothbrush to remove any "grunge" that may be lingering in vents and
radiator screens. The last step before painting is to wash the shell in
water and light detergent, using a clean old toothbrush to remove any other
remnants. Then let the shell air dry thoroughly for a couple of days
before painting. You may need to smooth areas such as cab sides with light
grit sandpaper to provide a good painting surface. Inspect the shell
closely before painting to ensure it is clean and smooth.
You can use the alcohol over and over by leaving it in the pan or pouring it
back into the bottle, if you are not going to use it in more than a couple
of days. One suggestion is that if you are making numerous models, as I am
right now, get them all ready for paint removal and subsequent painting at
the same time. A quart bottle of generic 91% isopropyl alcohol is just a
couple of bucks at a local drug store.
- John Manion
Denver, CO
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