Leo and GA-15 fans,
I just checked the Walthers website to see what the commotion was all about and
it is the same P1K USRA car that was out a couple of years ago. I think I saw
one at my LHS back then and wasn't moved to buy any. I have built a few of the
Intermountain cars and think they are the best and most accurate version of the
USRA cars. Besides you know love to roll my own.
I start by chopping away the plastic grab iron parts runner, trash it and
substitute Tichy bronze grabs. At my BRHS clinic in Streator I showed the guys
how to pre shorten them using the Tichy hole drilling jig that comes in thier
NYC boxcar and PFE reefer. Basically it lets you to cut them to about 1/16"
from the drop bend. This allows you to glue them in the mounting holes without
having to cut the excess poking into the inside of the car. If you don't cut
them down first, it leaves little nubs on the corrugated ends and wood sides.
Not important if you want to put a permanent coal load in the car but you'll
loose that laser blasted floor and the carefully rendered inside corrugations.
It just makes a neater car and the grabs look much more to scale than the
plastic counterparts. I also use sheet lead from my old roof flashing to weight
the car down fitting itbetween the plastic floor and the etched wood floor.
I have a brass version from Oriental that was made in the 80's and compared to
the IM car is a little heavy on the details. I paid about 5 bucks more than the
retail of the IM car at Wheaton back then. Now the WmKW RTR car is OK but if
you are concerned about eras and how long the car lasted you may have an issue.
The Q liked to keep thier composite cars that way until scrapped or converted.
They weren't known to strip the wood off and steel sheet the hoppers, gons and
boxcars like the Rock or IC. Odd considering I think of the Rock as a poor
man's Q. Anyway what they did do to the gons to upgrade them is to cut down the
sides at the floor level and lower the sides and ends 18 inches. I've bought a
couple of the kits to do just that but ended building them as lettered which
is why I now have a M&StL & Monon car. This was done to 1/2 the fleet about
1927 - 28. Murphy ends were replaced with recessed Dreadnaughts. From 1936-37
the remaining 391 unmodified cars were lowered and given solid floors. They
also attempted a few TOFC cars from the GA-5s but didn't last long and were
relegated to company service. My point is the one piece body would be a
nightmare to cut down if you wanted a later date car. The other issue I have is
the P1K looks a little high in the saddle. Look at the 2 photos in the BRHS
freight car plastic modeling guide to see what I mean. Look around the draft
gear area.
Admittedly the P1K car can help you achieve a large fleet, fast. The Q had
2,000 of these cars built and used them extensively for coal service. You could
build the Sunshine resin kits of other classes to suppplement your fleet and
add diversity, see them on the BRHS site. To save time use the WmKW car but
remember IM now has these cars built up along with the Tichy C&S USRA hoppers.
However you know how I feel about prebuilt kits unless you rip off all the
poorly de-burred plastic parts and replace them with metal stuff. Don't forget
to get some etched stainless Carmer cut levers.
If you want the full story on all the composite gons make sure you have the
Freight Car Data Sheet #7 and the Burlington Bulletin on the Coalfields.
1/87thly Yours,
Rob Manley
----- Original Message -----
From: qutlx1@aol.com
To: cbq@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2007 4:59 PM
Subject: [CBQ] Proto 1000 Q USRA composite gons
Any comments pro/con on the upcoming Walthers Proto 1000 Q USRA composite
gons? I've checked BB #35 but can't tell when these were gone from the fleet.
Leo Phillipp
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