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Re: [CBQ] 4-6-2 side rod repair

To: <CBQ@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [CBQ] 4-6-2 side rod repair
From: "Dale Reeves" <drale99@verizon.net>
Date: Sat, 04 Nov 2006 10:53:56 -0500
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Jerry:  Sorry I missed your message about fixing the side-rod.  I was in the 
hosp. for knee surgery.  I'm recovering nicely and will try to follow your 
instructions.  I'm not real great at this kind of work, but I'll try. 
Thanks.    Dale
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <jeralbin@aol.com>
To: <CBQ@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2006 2:36 PM
Subject: [CBQ] 4-6-2 side rod repair


>    Need help! How to find a replacement side-rod for an LMB 4-6-2 (S2)?
> Engine is fine, ready to run, but sits in the shop with a worn-out
> side-rod.
> Hoping there's a railroader out there who can tell me what I should do.
> Dale
>
> Dale: You may be able to repair the side rod if all that is wrong is the
> crank pin holes are wallowed out. Bore or ream out the worn holes to the 
> diameter
> of the smallest brass washer that will fit the new hole. Layer or stack 
> the
> washers in the hole, don't worry if the washer stack is thicker than the 
> side
> rod. Make sure all is clean and flux and solder the washer stack to the 
> side
> rod using silver bearing solder. This whole process should aim to maintain 
> the
> same crank pin center to center distance on the side rod. That's the hard 
> part.
> If you don't do that, driver quartering becomes a problem. Continuing on,
> drill new clearance holes for the crank pins in the washer stack and file 
> the
> stack to the final thickness of the side rod. Upon assembly, lubricate the 
> crank
> pin screws/side rod holes with a light molybdenum disulfide grease, like
> Moly-Kote. You can also use telescoping brass tubing segments to fill the 
> new
> holes. Good luck.  Jerry Albin
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> 




 
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