I wouldn't spend a lot of time working over the Walthers Budd CP domes.
Think of it.... why would Walthers deviate from their "program" and bring
out the one prototype Budd dome that 1) was not an Amtrak car and 2) was
oddball for any US Budd domes (MP, IC, WAB, N&W, NP, GN, SOU, AutoTrain And
CB&Q).
The choice is just too weird, even for Willy K...... I smell something.
Not saying Walthers isn't still capable of bonehead choices, but this one is
too obvious... You got to believe that there is a Cal Zephyr or something is
in the works from Walthers or from someone Walthers is aware of.
So I would just sit back and get to some of the other projects on the list
and let the dome kitbashes lay on the workbench for a while....
Charlie Vlk
----- Original Message -----
From: "baton580" <rplaehn@cox-internet.com>
To: <BRHSlist@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, October 27, 2003 9:23 AM
Subject: [BRHSlist] Re: Skirts for Walthers Budd cars?
> --- In BRHSlist@yahoogroups.com, "rgp212000" <rgp21@p...> wrote:
> > Anyone tried to make full-skirts for the Walthers HO Budd passenger
> > cars with any success? Got large radius's --- just hate that
> opening.
> >
> > Bob
>
> I have done this with fairly good results. This is the surgical
> formula:
>
> First, remove the trucks and set aside for another project as the
> Walthers trucks will not fit inside the skirting and they are about a
> foot short in wheelbase.
>
> 1. On non-dome cars, square off the opening outboard of the trucks
> with a knife, file or dremel tool -- which ever is best for you.
>
> 2. Cut a section of Evergreen 2020 or 2025 (which ever looks best to
> you) corrugated siding to fit the hole and glue along the joint with a
> liquid cement.
>
> 3. Take small strips of styrene to act as inside reinforcers for the
> skirt to skirt joints.
>
> THEN
>
> 1. Take a pair of Model Die Casting streamline trucks and discard the
> wheels. Add a set of P2K 36" wheels to the trucks.
>
> 2. Take a rail nipper or sprue cutter or some appliance and cut off
> the outside brake cyclinder (so that the truck will clear the skirting
> -- it won't be seen anyway) I also file the corners of the truck to
> help with clearances against the skirting.
>
> 3. File the raised portion around the truck center hole to the same
> height as the center supports/connections. This inside support grid
> should be flat. Then ream, file, drill or whatever to expand the
> center hole to go around the Walthers car kingpin. Paint all parts of
> the skirting and trucks a proper silver. Attach the trucks with the
> Walthers screw
>
> Add weight to the car to make up for the lost weight of the Walthers
> trucks and change out the couplers to kadee #5 or #58 and enjoy.
>
> For the dome cars, measure a strip of Evergreen that runs from just
> behind the stirrup step to the edge of the door on the other end, or
> under the entire car if you wish and glue along the appropriate spots.
> Do the same as above to the trucks.
>
> I also take very thin styrene sheet and cut an extension for the name
> board and once painted and decalled, the joint becomes very hard to
> see if not invisible. You may also use Tamaya clear green to tint the
> dome and various films or SSL (RC) window tinting on the windows.
>
> Not an absolutely perfect solution, but when running them in mixed
> consists with SSL and OL brass, the Walthers and older Riv. Budds look
> fine from three feet away and much better to the Burlington fan than
> leaving them the way they came from the box.
>
> I am working on filling in the flat letterboard to look like the Q
> cars, but can't get a thin enough corrugation to look right. Oh well!
> I hope this gives you some options.
>
> Bob (a differnt one)
>
>
>
>
>
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>
>
>
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