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[BRHSlist] Best way to remove lettering

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Subject: [BRHSlist] Best way to remove lettering
From: okt@juno.com
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 20:17:31 -0500
Cc: BRHSlist@yahoogroups.com
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You can also use a liquid called Chameleon, supposedly the best model
stripper around.
The thing with brake fluid is that it will affect the plastic and make
very brittle  (Charlie, tell them about that )
Badger makes and Air Eraser, works like a miniature sand blaster, best
used out side though.
Terry

Message: 4
   Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 14:24:45 -0600
   From: "zephyr9903" <zephyr9903@iowatelecom.net>
Subject: Re: Best way to remove lettering
 
On Mon, 25 Aug 2003 14:36:57 EDT, dhelec wrote
> Got some Stewarft cars and want to remove some the numbers. The best 
> way without damaging pain would be?
> 
There are several ways of removing factory lettering, but it varies with
the 
specific lettering ink/paint used by various manufacurers - I haven't
tried 
an Stewart cars, so I don't know for sure - here is my sequence of 
progressively more intrusive methods for general reference - just go down
the 
list & hope something works!
 
1.  If you can locate the original Champ DecalSet, it appears to be the
most 
vicious of the decal setting solutions.  You can also try MicroScale (the
red 
bottle), Walthers or Micromark . . .  Puddles the decal solution over the

unwanted lettering and let it sit . . . occasionally prod with a needle. 
If 
it begins to flake, then brush over it with a stiff-bristled brush, 
dislodghing as much of the offensive lettering as possible . . . wipe the

brush often & try to "fish" stray paint crumbs off the surface with a
twisted 
cone of paper towel . . . repeat as necessary (if it's working at all) .
. . 
Next up in strength would be isopropyl alcohol - not less than 90% 
concentration - look for rubbing alcohol at your drugstore.  Puddle it on
& 
watch for the lettering to begin softening.  Blot it with a paper-towel-
cone . . . again, if it's working - repeat.
 
If it still isn't working, try the Incredible Hulk of finish-removal . .
. . 
brake fluid - but be warned that it is likely to attack the paint, and
you 
will have to be quick - (It seems that the way brake fluid affects paint
is 
by forcing it to expand, thus breaking the surface bond.  You want the 
lettering to de-bond from the surface finish before it, in turn, breaks 
loose).
 
Finally, there is mechanical removal:  Either chisel the paint off with
light 
passes of an X-acto chisel blade (this is tricky - if you allow the blade
to 
twist, the "down corner" will gouge the surface paint or even the
underlying 
plastic) . . . OR - get one of those vanishingly rare typewriter or ink 
erasers - the gritty kind - and trim the tip to a chisel-shape for
control.  
Use it to "sand" the lettering off.
 
Either the X-acto or eraser method will change the surface sheen of the 
underlying paint, regardless of the care you take.  You can return the 
surface finish(or at least come close) by polishing the affected area
with 
jeweler's rouge until you feel you have a close match.  It won't matter
if 
you miss a bit - your clear overcoat after re-decaling will cover it
up/blend 
it in.
 
I am not recommending it, but a modeler I *once* knew claimed that the
best 
method was to place a hunk of dry ice over the lettering for 10-12
minutes - 
he claimed it made the lettering brittle enough to chip off without a
trace.  
(I was not impressed - at the time he told me, he was wearing bandaids on

three fingertips to protect the frost-burns he'd gotten by not wearing 
insulated gloves with dry ice . . . )
 
Good luck & let us know what works on Stewart paint!
 
Marshall Thayer
Mt. Pleasant, IA

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