There is NO stripper that cannot ruin plastic. I think some customers have
even ruined shells by soaking them in distilled water!!!
Seriously, you can't predict what is going to happen. Just about any fluid
strong enough to attack the printing ink or paint on a model can do things
to the plastic.
Be carefull out there!!!
Charlie Vlk
----- Original Message -----
From: <okt@juno.com>
To: <BRHSlist@yahoogroups.com>
Cc: <BRHSlist@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2003 8:17 PM
Subject: [BRHSlist] Best way to remove lettering
> You can also use a liquid called Chameleon, supposedly the best model
> stripper around.
> The thing with brake fluid is that it will affect the plastic and make
> very brittle (Charlie, tell them about that )
> Badger makes and Air Eraser, works like a miniature sand blaster, best
> used out side though.
> Terry
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 14:24:45 -0600
> From: "zephyr9903" <zephyr9903@iowatelecom.net>
> Subject: Re: Best way to remove lettering
>
> On Mon, 25 Aug 2003 14:36:57 EDT, dhelec wrote
> > Got some Stewarft cars and want to remove some the numbers. The best
> > way without damaging pain would be?
> >
> There are several ways of removing factory lettering, but it varies with
> the
> specific lettering ink/paint used by various manufacurers - I haven't
> tried
> an Stewart cars, so I don't know for sure - here is my sequence of
> progressively more intrusive methods for general reference - just go down
> the
> list & hope something works!
>
> 1. If you can locate the original Champ DecalSet, it appears to be the
> most
> vicious of the decal setting solutions. You can also try MicroScale (the
> red
> bottle), Walthers or Micromark . . . Puddles the decal solution over the
>
> unwanted lettering and let it sit . . . occasionally prod with a needle.
> If
> it begins to flake, then brush over it with a stiff-bristled brush,
> dislodghing as much of the offensive lettering as possible . . . wipe the
>
> brush often & try to "fish" stray paint crumbs off the surface with a
> twisted
> cone of paper towel . . . repeat as necessary (if it's working at all) .
> . .
> Next up in strength would be isopropyl alcohol - not less than 90%
> concentration - look for rubbing alcohol at your drugstore. Puddle it on
> &
> watch for the lettering to begin softening. Blot it with a paper-towel-
> cone . . . again, if it's working - repeat.
>
> If it still isn't working, try the Incredible Hulk of finish-removal . .
> . .
> brake fluid - but be warned that it is likely to attack the paint, and
> you
> will have to be quick - (It seems that the way brake fluid affects paint
> is
> by forcing it to expand, thus breaking the surface bond. You want the
> lettering to de-bond from the surface finish before it, in turn, breaks
> loose).
>
> Finally, there is mechanical removal: Either chisel the paint off with
> light
> passes of an X-acto chisel blade (this is tricky - if you allow the blade
> to
> twist, the "down corner" will gouge the surface paint or even the
> underlying
> plastic) . . . OR - get one of those vanishingly rare typewriter or ink
> erasers - the gritty kind - and trim the tip to a chisel-shape for
> control.
> Use it to "sand" the lettering off.
>
> Either the X-acto or eraser method will change the surface sheen of the
> underlying paint, regardless of the care you take. You can return the
> surface finish(or at least come close) by polishing the affected area
> with
> jeweler's rouge until you feel you have a close match. It won't matter
> if
> you miss a bit - your clear overcoat after re-decaling will cover it
> up/blend
> it in.
>
> I am not recommending it, but a modeler I *once* knew claimed that the
> best
> method was to place a hunk of dry ice over the lettering for 10-12
> minutes -
> he claimed it made the lettering brittle enough to chip off without a
> trace.
> (I was not impressed - at the time he told me, he was wearing bandaids on
>
> three fingertips to protect the frost-burns he'd gotten by not wearing
> insulated gloves with dry ice . . . )
>
> Good luck & let us know what works on Stewart paint!
>
> Marshall Thayer
> Mt. Pleasant, IA
>
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