We have been all through this before. The red roofs
were not a "paint scheme". They were "red leaded" to
prevent and arrest corrosion as needed. The practice
began circa 1920(on steel cabs) and remember before
that time many cabs had wooden roofs covered with
canvas. After that time, many engines had red lead on
the roofs and many did not and the coal smoke stains
made it hard to tell.
John
--- William Barber <clipperw@EarthLink.net> wrote:
> Marshall,
>
> I think this has been discussed before on the list,
> but how have your
> determined that the Q started painting cab roofs red
> in 1947? My
> impression was that it started earlier, possibly
> with the painting of
> S-4 #3000 for display at the Century of Progress in
> Chicago.
> Application of the large herald on the tender
> started just before that
> time. What might have possessed the RR to change the
> cab roof color as
> the end of steam operation was approaching?
> (Somewhere, I recall seeing
> a colorized version of locomotive and train at the
> Century of Progress
> that included a red cab roof. Unfortunately, I can't
> locate it.)
>
> Bill Barber
>
> On Thursday, July 31, 2003, at 12:48 PM,
> BRHSlist@yahoogroups.com wrote:
>
> > Message: 4
> > Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 10:31:15 -0600
> > From: "zephyr9903" <zephyr9903@iowatelecom.net>
> > Subject: Re: Re: "Burlington" emblem on steam loco
> tenders
> >
> > On Thu, 31 Jul 2003 13:36:23 -0000, captmix wrote
> >> Marshall,
> >>
> >> Thanks for your input. I model in O scale and
> would be looking for
> >> that size. I have thought about trimming the red
> border to make it
> >> look more like the older emblems. I have a
> number of books and many
> >> photos of Burlington equipment but a clear shot
> of that tender
> >> emblem in the old days is elusive. I did note
> that the larger power
> >> did use the wide red border in the late 30's so
> Walthers decals
> >> would probably be correct for those engines.
> >>
> >> I plan on painting a scratch built K-2 and would
> sure like to be
> >> reasonably accurate. I model the 1925-1935 time
> period. (That's
> >> before my time!)
> >>
> > Well, drat! I'm afraid that MicroScale is
> unlikely to ever issue the
> > set(s)
> > in O . . . OTOH, since they have all the artwork
> on computer file, & I
> > did it
> > in a vector program rather than bitmap graphis, it
> is infinitely
> > adjustable
> > up & down - If you'll be doing more Q locos in
> the foreseeable
> > future, it
> > might be worth asking Microscale about a custom
> run in O - (I have no
> > idea of
> > costs or minimums, but you *might* be able to
> peddle the overage on
> > list . . .)
> >
> > Failing that, you might check with Champion.
> Although they have halted
> > production, they are still selling off old stock,
> and may have some O
> > sets
> > left. While their heralds are useless to you
> because of sizes (the
> > small
> > herald is sized to the actual dimensions of the
> "older-power" herald,
> > so if
> > trimmed to the 4" red outline, they are too small,
> and the large herald
> > remains too large), Champ has the number style
> correct rather than
> > using "standard Roman as Walthers does. You'll
> want to specify the
> > "duluxe
> > gold" rather than "bronze gold" - if still
> available. I don't have
> > any on
> > hand to check, but shaving down the HO "large
> herald" might come
> > closer - at
> > which point I'd recommend checking the Microscale
> "Superpower" set -
> > It has
> > two different sizes (I was apparently the first
> decal designer to note
> > that
> > the 2-10-4 heralds were larger than those for the
> O5s and S4s, so you
> > have
> > two sizes to pick from. Trimming one of those
> *might* come close
> > enough . . . or not.
> >
> > As for the base paint, overall gloss black with
> graphite smokebox &
> > firebox
> > is correct for your period, as the red cabroof was
> not introduced until
> > 1947. For what it's worth, when we renovated
> Midwest Central #6 (nee
> > Surry
> > Susssex & Southampton #6; Baldwin 1891) for
> operation here in Mt.
> > Pleasant in
> > 1960, my late father was able to "score" actual
> CB&Q paint from the
> > West
> > Burlington shops . . . to *my* eyes, the black was
> sooo black, that it
> > seemed
> > to have a slight bluish cast. This I duplicated
> to my satisfaction by
> > adding
> > just enough B&O Royal Blue to the black that I
> could see the difference
> > between the mix and the original black while still
> in the jar. DON'T
> > overdo
> > it, though . . .
> >
> > As you know, graphite/oil preparations used by
> many railroads for hot
> > surfaces varied a LOT! It could range from a
> near-black with a slight
> > metallic sheen to a near-aluminum with a touch of
> black. The Q
> > material we
> > got in 1960 was a commercial preparation sold
> under the trade name of
> > "Sta-
> > Brite". It struck me as being just slightly
> brighter than the gray
> > used
> > on "Blackbird" road switchers (with the metallic
> graphite effect, of
> > course.
> > Back in those days, I just blended a dark reefer
> gray & silver until
> > I liked
> > it. Bear in mind that the appearance of graphite
> in pohotos is
> > strongly
> > affected by the light level, film sensitivity and
> exposure time, so if
> > you're
> > pretty much in the ballpark & it looks pleasing to
> *YOU*, just ignore
> > the
> > inevitable critics <LOL>!
> >
> > Good luck with your K-2 . . . & when it's done, be
> sure & share photos
> > at the
> > BRHS site!
> >
> > BTW - since you're modeling mid-depression, be
> sure and go easy on the
> > weathering. Manpower was really chep then, and
> Ralph Budd believed
> > cleanliness was a maintenance procedure. Even
> branchline power was
> > washed
> > regularly and wiped down daily . . .
> >
> > Marshall Thayer
> > Mt. Pleasant, IA
>
>
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