Rick
Throw a couple of Ford Tractors in the same autorack as they were
transported also. That will save on Mustangs how about throwing a Falcon in
als0
sjh
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Keil <rkeil6721@h...>
To: <BRHSlist@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, November 23, 2001 9:28 PM
Subject: Re: [BRHSlist] FW: Accurail Autoracks
> I concur on the 1967 Mustangs. My wife is a Mustang fan and I promised to
> fill one of my autoracks with them. I shooting for the bi-level since it
> will be cheaper! She has orders to by me as many of the Mustangs as she
can
> for B-days, anniveraries, Christmas etc.
>
> I have not seen a picture of a Q bi-level, where does the plaquard go?
> Thanks
>
> Rick Keil
> Omaha, NE
>
>
> >From: Aeolus3@a...
> >Reply-To: BRHSlist@yahoogroups.com
> >To: BRHSlist@yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: Re: [BRHSlist] FW: Accurail Autoracks
> >Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2001 15:32:09 EST
> >
> >In a message dated 11/23/01 9:09:29 AM Central Standard Time,
> >svmyers@s... writes:
> >
> >
> > > I am particularly concerned about clearing my
> > > tunnel portals. Perhaps they require no more clearance or a larger
> > > radius than full length passenger cars.
> > >
> >
> >Scott and List,
> >
> >I have built a few of the Accurail Autoracks.... they run well. If you
are
> >running full size passenger cars along with Vista Domes..... You
shouldn't
> >have any problems with the autoracks. They are heavy enough although I
> >would
> >suggest using after market wheelsets and kaydee #5's or the new #58's.
> >
> >When building either the bi or tri levels I have found a way that I think
> >is
> >the easiest. First I build the flat car, use super glue for the weight,
and
> >I
> >use screws for the trucks. For the rack, I start on one side, I super
glue
> >the corner stantions after glueing on the detail parts, then I super glue
2
> >of the middle stantions each about a 1/4 of the way from the ends. Repeat
> >that with the other side. If you are building the tri I start with the
top
> >deck first then glue the middle deck the same way. I then put the rack
away
> >to dry and harden up. I usually let it sit for 24 hours. Now you have the
> >racks solid with 8 stantions glued on..... I then glue the racks onto the
> >flat car. I let that dry for 24 hours, then I come back and finish
glueing
> >the stantions on the racks. Then you glue the rest of the detail parts
with
> >the brake rigging last.
> >
> >I think the worst part of building the autoracks is glueing the racks
onto
> >the flat car....
> >
> >As for being a Burlington Prototype...... The accurail car is a bit
> >different
> >from the photo's in Mike Spoor's Equipment Book..... although they do
look
> >very nice when finished. Now I also run mine back to Detroit EMPTY!
> >Walther's
> >makes a really nice 1967 Mustang Fastback and I have seen the "racks"
> >loaded
> >up.... However 15 Mustangs will cost about $150.00 per rack! Which is why
I
> >will be running them empty.
> >
> >Hope this helps
> >Loren
> >
> >
> >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
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