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Re: [BRHSlist] Airbrushing

To: BRHSlist@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BRHSlist] Airbrushing
From: Steve Wintner <steve_wintner@y...>
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 13:40:23 -0700 (PDT)
--- Steve Wintner <steve_wintner@y...> wrote:
> Let me look - someone besides Testors makes some
> kind
> of natural metal finish which you are supposed to
> brush on and then buff, I think. 
> 
AH HAH ! I found it.

Ok. Background - I used to be interesetd in Plastic
airplane models as well, and had a subscription to
Fine Scale Modeler (from Kalmbach). Since they do not
have all the moving gizmos, layout design issues, and
so forth we do, I think they pay more attention to
finishes on their work. And many aircraft have natural
metal finishes.

In the March 1994 and March 1996 issues, I found three
techniques which may help you. I'd think hard about
them before messing with brushing metallizer.

The first, simplest is called Bare Metla Foil. This is
a very thin sheet of adhesive backed aluminum. Stick
it on, burnish it down, and voila. Could be a pain to
cut out bits around windows, doors and so forth. They
have various shades of it, and your hobby shop can
probably get it. If not, e-mail me and I'll give you
the address and phone # in their ad.

Second and third were similar. There is a product
called SnJ spray metal. It is similar to metallizers
buffable formulation. Intended for airbrushing, etc.
BUT each of these issues have articles where someone
took the burnishing powder from SnJ, which is simply a
fine aluminum dust, and applied it over paint. One
used white enamel, the other oil based varnish. The
powder gets rubbed into the surface, giving it a metal
color. Both got fairly bright finishes. Based on what
I've seen, I'd use a semi-gloss or maybe even
moderately dull clearcoat over the finish, otherwise
it looks really shiny. I'd also think about using a
medium gray enamel under the powder, which should
darken it a bit. Stainless steel isn't as bright to my
eye as polished aluminum, which is what these guys
were modeling.

All three techniques require a surface smoother than a
babys rear before application - they both suggest
using 400-600-1000 and finally 2000 (!) grit sandpaper
to smooth the surface first, then washing, using
cheesecloths and working in dust free areas. 

But, to my eye, the airbrushed metallizer or SnJ paint
is the way to go. The other finishes looked too
bright. Thats why I made the suggestions for toning
them down. I would certainly try whatever technique
you want on scrap first.

Anyway, I hope that is some help.



=====
-Steve Wintner
"Hearts have been hard
Hands have been clenched into fists too long"
-Midnight Oil

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