Richard Wolter wrote:
>
Dick -
Basic steam troubleshooting 101:
First, remove the eccentrics & tape the valve gear to the running boards
& try again. Still glitching? If not, the problem is in the valve gear
motion. Check to see whether either side is impacting anything or
hanging up somehow. Check each pin for free rotation. If so, remove
the main rods & try again. Still glitching? If not, check the main rod
mounting holes for any flash or out-of-round. If so, remove the side
rods & try again - only the powered driver will be working, but if it
still glitches, then the problem isn't in any of the rods (the most
likely place). If it runs smoothly (if anemically), check all the side
rod mounting holes as above, and reattach, working from the main driver
on both sides, then one axle (both sides) at a time. This should tell
you whether one pair of drivers is out-of-quarter. If that's the
problem, you can either try gently stwisting the offending driver, or
simply file the appropriate side rod hole slightly oversize . . . .
If you've been through this, and found nothing, then the next easiest
thing to check is the axle bearings. Take the side rods back off, and
remove the motor/gear arrangement. With light pressure, move the frame
back and forth on a short length of track - see all axles turn smoothly
and evenly. If not, there may be a burr or unevenness on the axle or in
the bearing trough (you'll remove the driver retainer plate to check
this). If axles and bearings are OK, take a close look at the back of
each driver. There may be a bit of flash protruding which is rubbing
against the frame as the drivers turn.
If, on the other hand, this does *not* show any glitches, the problem
*is* in the motor, drive train or electrical circuitry. This is
trickier for me to comment on, because I don't have a P2K 0-8-0 to look
at, and don't know just how the drive train is configured - but here's
what to look for -
The motor shaft may not run true. If there is a slight bend (unless
there is a shaft coupling), it will press and release the worm from the
gear on each revolution, momentarily jamming the gear . . . .
Check to see that the worm/gear mesh is correct. The old "Basswood &
Cardstock Brigade" method was to stick a piece of typing paper between
the worm and the gear & tighten them back in place. If the paper is
jammed too tightly to move, then the mounting is too tight. If you can
slip it back and forth easily, there is too much slop, and the worm/gear
will be "lashing". If a slow, steady pull allows you to withdraw the
paper, it's just about right. Depending upon the way the drive train
is built, you should find some point at which you can shim or trim to
adjust the worm/gear mesh.
Electrical discontinuity (unless you have a multimeter) is just a matter
of checking all pickups, wires and connections to make sure they are
good and solid.
Before doing any of this, however, read the fine print carefully - if
the warrenty is voided by your troubleshooting, just give it up, face
the fact that you'll have to be patient a bit longer, and go the
guarantee route - no point in taking a chance that you will find an
actual manufacturer's booboo that needs replacement you are no longer
qualified for <LOL>!
Marshall
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