Nelson,
Thank you for your honest comments on what you encountered while building the kit, I know that it will help me build some better models when I have some time to assemble my two kits. Some people look at constructive criticism as negativity, but it if does help someone else build something better it can be construed as positive as well. Which in this case Dave did change the instructions to take into account some of your suggestions, thank you Dave.
Some years back before Walthers had release their model of the troop kitchen cars, there was another company that brought out a kit of this car in styrene, the name escapes me at the moment. Someone looking to buy the kit asked for opinions and I offered mine, in which I stated I wasn’t that happy with the roof and would probably replace it. I was told that I should be happy with what was offered, or the best one was the “want some cheese with your wine” comment. The only positive comment to me was an offlist comment by the late Ed Derouin that told me to be patient, there was a better model coming, which turned out to the Walthers model.
Again, thank you for your candor.
Ed Pavlovic
From: CBQ@groups.io [mailto:CBQ@groups.io] On Behalf Of Nelson Moyer
Sent: Sunday, February 16, 2020 10:06 AM
To: CBQ@groups.io
Subject: Re: [CBQ] NE-10 Waycar
Bryan, since you raise the question, I’ll elaborate.
I was working from the original version of the instructions. I have talked to Dave via email, and he corrected the underframe error re the A and B ends, but the control valve is still shown mounted transversely, when it should be in line with the center sill. Photos of the three pilot models are inconsistent, and some show incorrect grab irons on the cupola, incorrect antenna location, etc. The pilot model photos show the small light, but not the large Mars light. Details for mounting the stem winder aren’t covered, and there is one small side view photo for the modeler to work from. Instructions tell the modeler to cut the end rails to fit the ladders, but the prototype clearly shows that the ladders mount on the outside of the end rails, and the end rails are continuous behind the ladder. The kit requires a combination of commercial and modeler bent grab irons and uncoupling levers, as no grab irons or levers are included in the kit. I made jigs to bend the cupola and end grab irons, I hand bent the uncoupling levers, and I used commercial grab irons for the rest. Dave issued a revised set of instructions for newly purchased kits, but it still contains inconsistencies, and those with old kits must know to ask for the revised instructions as a an emailed pdf. I probably missed some other issues with the instructions, but you get the point. Those issues are within Dave’s control. His final word was, “Use prototype photos”.
The master and casting issues are beyond Dave’s control, as Funaro and Camerlingo did both the masters and casting. The most obvious error in the castings is that the uncoupling levers are incorrectly mounted on the end sill, when they should be mounted lower on the steps. The Mars light is mounted on a plate attached to the end of the roof, and the running board extends over the Mars light. Mounting details must be gleaned from prototype photos. The wood running board casting it too short to cover the Mars Lights. This may not be an issue, as I think all cars converted to train radio got steel running boards, and I’m substituting Plano steel running boards for the plastic representation included in the kit. It appears that the master was patched with putty and sanded, but the mold picked up the patches and transferred them to the production car bodies. Even after careful sanding, the patches still show, and there are other irregularities in the roof that I had to fill with putty and sand. I had to thin the roof overhang on each end by carefully scraping off the excess resin. I would have been possible to include the window sashes on the masters, so modelers didn’t have to cut and fit styrene strip for the sashes. The end platforms have to be trimmed by the modeler because the masters were incorrect. The rivet detail is poorly defined and inconsistent. The coupler mounting pads on the casting sheet are too thin, resulting in the couplers being very low. I used three Tichy plastic washers from spare AB brake sprues and one Kadee fiber washer on each king pin to bring the couplers up to the NMRA standard. It would be better to add an additional shim to the pad before gluing it to the underframe. There is considerable body clean-up, including removal of the large and small casting channels, especially the large one that runs up the middle of the inside of the cupola. The instructions warn that this is not a beginner’s kit, and indeed it is not. Unless you’re an experienced craftsman, get a friend or commercial builder to build your kit. As Dave states on the kit box label, this is a “Craftsman Level Kit”.
All resin kit builders with experience building Speedwitch, Yarmouth Model Works, Southern Car & Foundry, Resin Car Works, Westerfield, and the fine CB&Q prototypes offered by Jerry Hamsmith will attest to the fact that F&C hasn’t kept pace with the state of the art. That’s not bashing Dave, just stating a well-known fact. F&C kits are priced somewhat lower than most of the state of the art kits, and I suspect F&C fit Dave’s price point. You get what you pay for.
The Q Connection NE-10 is the only way to have that waycar short of scratchbuilding, and I’m grateful and happy to have two in progress with the prospect of acquiring two more despite the shortcomings and difficulties. The kit offers the option of building several versions of the car, which should enhance its appeal. My comments are intended to inform prospective modelers that this is not an easy kit to build and that producing a credible model will require supplying parts not included in the kit, proper tools, careful study of prototype photos to supplement instructions, and no small amount of skill.
Nelson Moyer