Bryan, since you raise the question, I’ll elaborate.
I was working from the original version of the instructions. I have talked to Dave via email, and he corrected the underframe error re the A and B ends, but the
control valve is still shown mounted transversely, when it should be in line with the center sill. Photos of the three pilot models are inconsistent, and some show incorrect grab irons on the cupola, incorrect antenna location, etc. The pilot model photos
show the small light, but not the large Mars light. Details for mounting the stem winder aren’t covered, and there is one small side view photo for the modeler to work from. Instructions tell the modeler to cut the end rails to fit the ladders, but the prototype
clearly shows that the ladders mount on the outside of the end rails, and the end rails are continuous behind the ladder. The kit requires a combination of commercial and modeler bent grab irons and uncoupling levers, as no grab irons or levers are included
in the kit. I made jigs to bend the cupola and end grab irons, I hand bent the uncoupling levers, and I used commercial grab irons for the rest. Dave issued a revised set of instructions for newly purchased kits, but it still contains inconsistencies, and
those with old kits must know to ask for the revised instructions as a an emailed pdf. I probably missed some other issues with the instructions, but you get the point. Those issues are within Dave’s control. His final word was, “Use prototype photos”.
The master and casting issues are beyond Dave’s control, as Funaro and Camerlingo did both the masters and casting. The most obvious error in the castings is that
the uncoupling levers are incorrectly mounted on the end sill, when they should be mounted lower on the steps. The Mars light is mounted on a plate attached to the end of the roof, and the running board extends over the Mars light. Mounting details must be
gleaned from prototype photos. The wood running board casting it too short to cover the Mars Lights. This may not be an issue, as I think all cars converted to train radio got steel running boards, and I’m substituting Plano steel running boards for the plastic
representation included in the kit. It appears that the master was patched with putty and sanded, but the mold picked up the patches and transferred them to the production car bodies. Even after careful sanding, the patches still show, and there are other
irregularities in the roof that I had to fill with putty and sand. I had to thin the roof overhang on each end by carefully scraping off the excess resin. I would have been possible to include the window sashes on the masters, so modelers didn’t have to cut
and fit styrene strip for the sashes. The end platforms have to be trimmed by the modeler because the masters were incorrect. The rivet detail is poorly defined and inconsistent. The coupler mounting pads on the casting sheet are too thin, resulting in the
couplers being very low. I used three Tichy plastic washers from spare AB brake sprues and one Kadee fiber washer on each king pin to bring the couplers up to the NMRA standard. It would be better to add an additional shim to the pad before gluing it to the
underframe. There is considerable body clean-up, including removal of the large and small casting channels, especially the large one that runs up the middle of the inside of the cupola. The instructions warn that this is not a beginner’s kit, and indeed it
is not. Unless you’re an experienced craftsman, get a friend or commercial builder to build your kit. As Dave states on the kit box label, this is a “Craftsman Level Kit”.
All resin kit builders with experience building Speedwitch, Yarmouth Model Works, Southern Car & Foundry, Resin Car Works, Westerfield, and the fine CB&Q prototypes
offered by Jerry Hamsmith will attest to the fact that F&C hasn’t kept pace with the state of the art. That’s not bashing Dave, just stating a well-known fact. F&C kits are priced somewhat lower than most of the state of the art kits, and I suspect F&C fit
Dave’s price point. You get what you pay for.
The Q Connection NE-10 is the only way to have that waycar short of scratchbuilding, and I’m grateful and happy to have two in progress with the prospect of acquiring
two more despite the shortcomings and difficulties. The kit offers the option of building several versions of the car, which should enhance its appeal. My comments are intended to inform prospective modelers that this is not an easy kit to build and that producing
a credible model will require supplying parts not included in the kit, proper tools, careful study of prototype photos to supplement instructions, and no small amount of skill.
Nelson Moyer
From: CBQ@groups.io [mailto:CBQ@groups.io]
On Behalf Of Bryan Howell via Groups.Io
Sent: Sunday, February 16, 2020 8:32 AM
To: CBQ@groups.io
Subject: Re: [CBQ] NE-10 Waycar
Rather then just bashing the model and not providing constructive criticism, perhaps you could supply Dave with the errors you found in the instructions so he can correct
them for others that purchase the model?