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Re: [CBQ] Removing factory paint and decals

To: <CBQ@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [CBQ] Removing factory paint and decals
From: "John Trulson" <norskeviking@msn.com>
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2013 19:33:52 -0700
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We use aluminum oxide 100 grit, and with care you are able to remove lettering without damage to the rest of the paint. We are able to strip locos and cars or plastic or brass at pressures of 40lbs or less without an damage to detail. John Trulson
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, June 30, 2013 7:24 PM
Subject: Re: [CBQ] Removing factory paint and decals

 

Ken,
 
This is a topic worth discussion on the list.  Can you tell us the brand name of the blaster and what type of grit you are using?
 
Rich G.
-----Original Message-----
From: Kenneth Middleton <krmiddle@att.net>
To: CBQ <CBQ@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sun, Jun 30, 2013 5:36 pm
Subject: Re: [CBQ] Removing factory paint and decals

 
I have found two methods that work to varying degrees of success, depending upon the paint that has been used. I have used 91% isopropyl alcohol (available in pharmacies) which seems to work well with some paints (I've had good luck stripping Roundhouse factory paint with it). However, there are some paints it simply doesn't seem to touch. An example I've found here are some Walthers tank cars. I would suggest trying that first, because if it works it's pretty easy.
 
What I've found most successful is using a bead blaster. I would have been afraid it would damage the plastic but it doesn't do that in my experience (though I tried it on a junk Athearn box car body I had around first just to be sure). This is something I read about on the internet and it seems to work well. I have to turn the air pressure on my compressor up to 100 psi (as high as my compressor will go). It's almost like it just "erases" the paint. The internet site (sorry I don't remember the location any more) said that you could even paint the models and then strip them again if you weren't happy with the paint job. I'm not sure bead blasters are all that common. I bought mine so that I could use it to etch brass slightly to get paint to adhere better (that only requires 60 psi). If you would like more information or have questions, please contact me off line.
 
Beest regards,
 
Ken Middleton
Portage, MI
krmiddle@att.net
----- Original Message -----
From: Dwight
Sent: Saturday, June 29, 2013 3:16 PM
Subject: [CBQ] Removing factory paint and decals

 
What is the best way to strip the factory paint on a locomotive along with the unwanted decal so you can paint it in Q colors?

Dwight



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