Re: [CBQ] Removing factory paint and decals

["Kenneth Middleton" <krmiddle@att.net>]

I have found two methods that work to varying degrees of success, depending upon the paint that has been used. I have used 91% isopropyl alcohol (available in pharmacies) which seems to work well with some paints (I've had good luck stripping Roundhouse factory paint with it). However, there are some paints it simply doesn't seem to touch. An example I've found here are some Walthers tank cars. I would suggest trying that first, because if it works it's pretty easy.

 

What I've found most successful is using a bead blaster. I would have been afraid it would damage the plastic but it doesn't do that in my experience (though I tried it on a junk Athearn box car body I had around first just to be sure). This is something I read about on the internet and it seems to work well. I have to turn the air pressure on my compressor up to 100 psi (as high as my compressor will go). It's almost like it just "erases" the paint. The internet site (sorry I don't remember the location any more) said that you could even paint the models and then strip them again if you weren't happy with the paint job. I'm not sure bead blasters are all that common. I bought mine so that I could use it to etch brass slightly to get paint to adhere better (that only requires 60 psi). If you would like more information or have questions, please contact me off line.

 

Beest regards,

 

Ken Middleton
Portage, MI
krmiddle@att.net

----- Original Message -----

From: Dwight

To: CBQ@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, June 29, 2013 3:16 PM

Subject: [CBQ] Removing factory paint and decals

 

What is the best way to strip the factory paint on a locomotive along with the unwanted decal so you can paint it in Q colors?

Dwight

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