OK here goes.
The original LMB frame was cut right behind the rear driver and a
new frame extention was fabbed from sheet brass. The cylinders were
modified so the boiler would sit lower in the saddle and I increased
the angle of the tubes that slope up to the smoke box. (sorry, I'm
still a laymen when it comes to nameing everything on a steam
engine). The crosshead guides also had to be lowered so the main rods
wouldn't bind as they went through they're cycle. I don't know if
this is a problem with all the LMB O1A's or a fluke, but there is no
way mine would have run the way it was originaly assembled.I then
added the numberous Nut/bolt/washer castings to the cylinders, along
with the check valves and a new saddle flange.
The boiler started out as a piece of 1 1/6" brass tubing which is
practicaly dead on in scale to the prototype. The tubing was notched
at the firebox and the firebox sides were made from .028 brass sheet.
The backhead was also febbed from the same. The reason I chose to
build an O2 was the fact that it has a straight boiler (no taper),
which I thought would be much eaiser to model being this is my first
time scratch building a steam engine. The smoke box is a 1" diameter
tube telescoped into the boiler with two .010 wrappers, the top layer
having the rivits embosed. The smokebox front was also built 0f .010
sheet brass. The 16 smokebox door clamps are each made up of two
extremly small strips of brass and was a great source of agravation
to assemble.
I embose my rivits one at a time with a pin mounted in my pin vice
and the work sitting on my self healing mat, which has enough give in
it to make the embosing work. It's a time consuming process that I
don't want to do again. I think I'll buy a NWSL riveter for next
time. Emboseing rivets in .010 brass takes a bit of force, and after
emboseing the what seemed like over 1000 rivits on the tender in one
sitting My thumb and fore finger was numb for a week. Besides, the
riveter gives you a crisper rivet without distorting the surounding
area. The only downfall is the price, the riveter with all theparts
you need to make rivets cost as more than I have in the whole model.
The cab is build from .010 brass sheet, along with the tender shell.
The tender shell wrapper is one long piece of brass folded at each
corner to form the shell. I do all the cutting I can with a strong
pair of kitchen shears. They work well on brass sheet .010" and
thinner. For thicker material I use my Dremel with a cut off wheel.
No matter what process I use, I aways cut a bit off the line and
finish the cut with jewelers files. Inside cuts like the cab windows
are made by drilling multipal holes inside the layout lines and then
finished with lots of filing.
The sand and axilary dome were turned from brass rod. I don't own a
lathe so I chuck a piece of the brass rod into a variable speed drill
and spin the piece while shaping it with a cut off wheel chucked into
my Dremel. once I get it close I finish with files and then fine
sandpaper. The steam dome is from the LMB O1A reshaped the same way
as above.
Most of the castings are from Precision scale, Cary and Cal Scale.
It's repowered with an Ajin gearbox and Sagami (sp?) can motor.
John.
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