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[CBQ] Re: Paint & Decals for E-Units

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Subject: [CBQ] Re: Paint & Decals for E-Units
From: "Paul A. Leonard" <paulaleonard@tx.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2007 21:00:55 -0600
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First of all, I'd like to say "Thank You!" to Rob Manley & Scott Myers for 
their advice about re-doing Life-Like E-8's.

Here are the results:

http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/showphoto.php/photo/74980

AND:

http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/showphoto.php/photo/74979

Stripping with 90% IPA went really well.  I used a plastic sports bottle with a 
wide-mouth cap.  

I drilled-out & filed the holes for the numberboards, which are closed-over on 
the Life-Like U-P models.  However, I left on the side-skirting for the fuel 
tanks, which apparently was there originally.  The side-skirts disappeared over 
time, probably during maintenance.  I didn't see a single Brulington E-8 photo 
in Spoor Vol.2 that had them!  I eventually will cut them off, I think, but 
then I'd have to detail the fuel tanks & fillers.

I had some issues with the spray painting (  --  I discovered that diluting 
acrylic paint with Floquil thinner is a big mistake.  It creates an emulsion 
that is thicker than my spray nozzles! -- ) but eventually settled on 
"Stainless Steel" cut with IPA, and then used a dilute wash of "Aluminum" to 
silver it up some -- both were Testors ModelMaster acrylics.   

I also spray painted the truck castings with a light coat of the Aluminum.

The bottom side-stripes, and also the lower part of the nose were high-lighted 
with red painted-on striping (Badger CB&Q Red), after masking the area and 
sealing with acrylic clear-coat.  I thought this worked really well. 

Decals were a problem, since I could not locate any sets of Microscale E-Unit 
decals (#60-98).  What I ended up using was a combination of N-scale E-5 decals 
(set #60-581) and HO-scale E-unit decals (#60-98) as follows:

1.  For the nose stripe decals and the "Burlington" side letters, I used mainly 
Microscale E-5 set #60-581 .  The E-5 nose-striping is more curved than the E-8 
(I suppose because of the rake of the E-5 nose), and there were only 2-1/2 
stripes per side.  I used that as the starting point, then added a top stripe & 
a half using pieces cut from Microscales HO set for the E-units (set #87-98).

2. The "Burlington Route" Symbol on the nose came from a set of N-scale Caboose 
decals, which has several sizes & styles from which to choose!  

3. The E-5 "Burlington" lettering was too spaced-out for the E-8, so the 
lettering had to be cut apart and each letter applied individually on each side 
for each of the 2 E-8's that I re-did.  This took awhile, a lot of patience, 
and a lot of MicroSol!!!

4.  The upper red side-stripes were modified from the HO-scale striping decals 
from the Microscale E-unit set  (87-98).  They are too wide, but with my eyes 
they need to be to see them!!!

5. The builders model plates were from the E-5 decal set:  they actually say 
"E-5", but again I am so blind that I it looks like they say "E-8" and so I 
won't notice!

6.  The "F" letters designating front on the N-scale E-5 decal set were too 
small, so what I applied is actually from the HO-decal set.  

7.  I added clear plastic for the number boards, then applied the black unit 
numbers from the HO-scale E-unit decal set from the inside.  After they dried, 
I painted over the decal/numberboards with white acrylic from the inside.  This 
is backwards from CBQ practices which has white numbers on black background, 
but again I am too blind to notice.  For reference, one of these is now 
#9940-A, and the other is #9947B, both of which were still on the roster at the 
merger.

The "glass" for the side portholes is Testors "Clear parts Cement & Window 
Maker", rather than the clear plastic "buttons" that came in the Life-Like 
models.

The biggest deal was changing out the couplers.  On the rear I am using MTL 
#1130's.  This is the first time I have been able to actually assemble MTL 
couplers.  (Hooray for me!)  They were inserted in place of the Rapido-style 
couplers that came with the Life-Like models, and glued in place with a spot of 
Control Gel CA.  The problem is that the couplers are so long that they make 
the units seem VERY far apart.  I think I will run them like this for awhile, 
then try to fabricate draw-bars that will bring the units closer together.

For the front couplers, I replaced the stock Unimates with Atlas #23015 
Accumates.  (MTL #1015's fit also.)  This modification involved widening the 
holes in the pilot and also deepening it.  On one of the units I got a little 
too carried away with the filing, and so had to fabricate and glue in an 
interior brace for the pilot in which to screw the coupler.  I made 2 of the 
braces and will retro-fit the other unit, I am sure.

Thanks again for the advice.

Best regards, and best wishes for a Happy & prosperous New Year!

Paul

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



 
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