Thank you Rob for the advice :)
Looks like decals for E8s are going to be a problem thou as microscale
doesn't list the sheet any more.
cheers
Dave
Rob Manley wrote:
>
> Dave and Paul,
>
> Unfortunately they need to be stripped?
> It is great fortune that they are to be stripped and painted for a
> deserving railroad. Personally I love to buy UP roling stock and send
> them to thier death and resurection as Q property.
> As Steve Allen once said, " all seriousness aside folks "
>
> There are 2 schools of thought concerning "spray plating" those Es.
> First however you have to strip them. What I've found lately is that
> my old standby, brakefluid doesn't work as fast and deep on some paint
> jobs. A rexcent P2K double door shell was started with ABS fluid and 3
> days later I could only budge the paint with my fingernail.????????
> Normally 3 days of soaking in the stripper would start to cause
> brittleness on the plastic. 3 days would have melted the old Athearn
> paint off in sheets. I switched to Isopropyl 91%, yes I have written
> about this many times, and had great sucess in 4 hours. Walgreens and
> Target both stock it.
>
> Now how to paint. Paint not foiling, N-scale detail is too fine to use
> the model foil the automotive modelers use for thier trim. It'll cover
> up the rivet battens and be too hard to burnish down effectively.
>
> Paint option 1: I always liked the Testors Metalizer paints. They have
> various shades like aluminum and Yeah, Stainless steel. That's what
> you need, it even has a slight bluish cast to it. Look at yout
> Burlington Color books and you'll see what I mean. You put a BB in the
> bottle, shake like crazy, pour into the feed cup on the airbrush,
> crank the pressure regulator to 35 psi, spin the cone down to the
> finest pattern and spray for about 30 seconds ( N-scale remember) and
> you're done. The Metalizers are practically pre-thinned so a little
> will still do a large job. The thinner is probably laquer thinner but
> I like to use the manufacturers product. Oh yeah, it is a hot paint so
> don't lay the first coat on too heavy. After it dries a few days you
> buff lightly with an old cotton sock. If you overbuff you can give it
> a second coat. For the grille work on E8 & E7s do the thinned black or
> Dark-dark gray wash next and then gloss coat with Future Floor finish,
> Let it dry for 3 more days and you're ready for decal, if you found
> them. Here is a plug. Try Dave Lot'z shop for decals or call
> Desplaines Hobbies in Desplaines or Al's in Elmhurst. Those are 2 of
> the locals here in Chicagaland that usually have some Q stuff in stock
> and cater to modelers. One word of caution and many words of cursing.
> The nose stripes don't lay down as easy as they look. You have to cut
> the stipes apart to get them around the bugboards, so be patient. try
> flooding the area with water and float the solid stripe decal over the
> nose to see where you will have to cut. Pull the stripe off with
> tweezers and lay it on the release paper or a glass plate and then
> section to fit.
>
> Your nose will be as good as you prep so look over the casting prior
> to painting for angular parting lines coming down from the bugboards
> to the pilot and wet sand them with 600 - 800 3M automotive wet & Dry
> paper or use a nailboard. You guys that attended my clinic in Streator
> will remember this. Go th the cosmetic aisle in Walgreens and get the
> 2 or 4 color nailboards. Those are used for buffing and finish sanding
> womens nails and have a grit similar to the 600, 800 and higher. You
> can cut the boards down to 1/4" strips and make N scale belt sanders
> out of them. Also look at the cab roof, there is sometimes a parting
> line a little set back from the upper window line. What I like to call
> the eyebrows.
>
> Paint option 2. Alclad. Some of the Hobby shops that carry military
> kits have this product. It is a non buffing paint. You paint the model
> with a Black undercoat and then paint again with the Alclad silver. It
> is a high gloss with a nice mirror like finish. Honestly, I haven't
> used it but I have seen some examples of it and I liked it a lot. Now
> for some street cred, my N-Scale friend, Mike Skibbe, has used it and
> is very happy with the results. Mike is the kind of modeler that HO
> guys wish they be as good as. He does model the Q when he's not busy
> with the CGW, MILW and CNW. I do plan on painting my HO Con-Cor
> Pioneer Zephyr with the Alclad but I am going to warm up with a Resin
> Unlimited fluted stainless steel trailer.
>
> Well have as much fun with your E-unit as I had with former Q E, CN (
> IC) 100 this weekend crewing on the Santa Claus Train.
>
> May the Peace and Joy of Christmas be shattered by the clatter of
> tinplate trains and the laughter of grandchildren under the tree.
> Merry Christmas,
> Rob Manley
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Dave Hancox
> To: CBQ@yahoogroups.com <mailto:CBQ%40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 10:28 PM
> Subject: Re: [CBQ] Paint & Decals for E-Units
>
> Hey cool, "snap" I too just scored a great deal on a E8 AB set that need
> stripped down.
>
> Looking forward to the replies :)
>
> cheers
>
> pal_houston wrote:
> >
> > I got a spectacular deal on a pair of N-scale E-8's this past weekend.
> >
> > Unfortunately, they need to be stripped, painted & decaled for CB&Q,
> > which will give me something to do instead of hibernating this winter.
> >
> > I would appreciate your expert advice concerning the following:
> >
> > 1. what is the best paint to use to get the burnished aluminum effect
> > that E-8's had?
> >
> > 2. where am I going to get a couple of Micro Scale 60-98 decal sets?
> > (The sources I have checked already include, in no particular order: 2
> > local hobby shops within a Saturday morning's drive of home, Micro
> > Scale, Walthers, Internet Model Trains, Discount Trains On-line, and
> > Feather River Trains)
> >
> > 3. replacing the front & rear couplers on these Life-Like models with
> > MTL front pilot couplers MTL #1021 (001-02-021), and rear couplers MTL
> > #1129 (001-30-013) as recommended or #1130 (001-30-014) as an
> > alternative.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Paul
> >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------
> >
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.0/1180 - Release Date:
> 10/12/2007 2:51 p.m.
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.0/1180 - Release Date: 10/12/2007
> 2:51 p.m.
>
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