Hi Rob
There is no alleged accuracy of the mighty DuPont "DRY PLATE STANDARD", this is
what the paint was made from that went on the F units, so there is no variance.
The Dry Plate Standard is the formula for making the paint, with out the DPS or
it's number it would be impossible to make the paint color, that's why we
matched to a DPS and not a paint "CHIP".
John Lee, MMR
Hobby Consultant
Badger Air Brush Company
----- Original Message -----
From: robev1630@sbcglobal.net
To: CBQ@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2005 8:00 PM
Subject: Re: [CBQ] Decals & Gray Ghosts
Ken,
Thanks,but the decals curled so bad I sidetracked the project. The red turned
pink with the Microscale recommended decal saver.
I stopped using Testors Dullcoat years ago because I felt it yellowed or
frosted the color too much. Now this was the old organic based formula. If they
have a water base I haven't tried it.
I should mention that the Accuflex Antique White is a close match to Genesis'
Q gray that's why I like it.
There has been many fist fights over the Aluminum in the mix and the alleged
accuracy of the mighty Dupont paint chip. The perception of color can vary
greatly as the chip would have been painted differently than say, an actual F
unit. So I don't buy the argument in favor of the model paint matching the chip.
Joe Legner once told me that the aluminum in the paint oxidized as it was
sprayed from the gun and caused it to look more like an ultra light gray rather
than a silvery mix. Further enviornmental exposure caused it to lighten more.
Look at the wonderful Morning Sun or Four Ways West books, your slides and
videos and judge the color by how you perceive it. I've just introduced a
billion variables didn't I??/
If Kodachromes are underexposed slightly the sky will be a deeper cobalt than
what you see in the real sky so it stands to reson that the Q Grayback may look
darker than a slide that was overexposed and the motor looks more white. The
paint will also fade through constant washing too and the Q was proud of thier
early motors.
Offset printing also adds more variables. How was the slide scanned?? Was it
color corrected?? Was it scanned without correction and how did the platemaker
or pressman account for color shift or dot gain??? Any of the scans I bought or
had project managed for my print jobs have never been a match from the first
round of proofs. The scanner operator has gone back to the file and adjusted
the color to look better or closer to the original and sometimes it takes 4 or
5 rounds before he gets it right. Then he has to adjust for the press and
paper/substrate characteristics. I wonder how many hours they spend on 1 image
colorcorrecting for a 200 image Morning Sun book???Did they have a F7 in the
parking lot to judge color by??? I know Bernie did but his books were Black &
White?
You could go by the EMD publicity prints and guess they color matched to
thier version or reality but were they color blind? were they trained in color
separtion???
It's all highly accedemic. Almost nobody is right or wrong but you can make
fun of the silver TYCO F-7s.
When I took delivery of my Genesis ABBA set I thought they were close or
better than Stewart's color ( nice color for cov hoppers) but they begged for a
beatin' with the Paasche H. That's how I solved my color crisis. Filthy the top
deck, dirty bow wave on the sides and dirty pilot.
Whatever color hits you and screams BURLINGTON is what should be used. Don't
go by what the bottle says go by your perception of the color. And have a good
story just in case.
Sincerely,
Rob Manley
Midwest Mod-U-Trak
"Better modeling through personal embarassment"
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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