I use Scalecoat I and thin my mixture 25% with Lacquer Thinner for
airbrushing. I apply it in thin coats directly on the plastic shell and have
never had a problem with crazing on the Stewart/Kato shells. The key is to
keep rotating the shell and let the paint coverage slowly build up until
complete coverage is achieved. This prevents the paint and solvent from
building up too quickly which could attack the plastic. Once the desired
paint coverage is achieved- I put my hand inside the shell and use a hair
dryer (low setting) to blow hot air on the freshly painted surface which
tends to soften and settle the paint to a nice smooth surface. The safety
valve here is that you will burn your hand before you melt the plastic. I
then let the painted shell or shells sit for 5 to 7 days, at least, before I
decal so the paint has time to completely cure and decal setting solutions
won't attack the surface.
John Olson
Billings, Mt.
> From: jeralbin@a...
> Reply-To: BRHSlist@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 05:16:35 EST
> To: BRHSlist@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [BRHSlist] F unit color
>
> In a message dated 2/21/2002 6:26:27 AM Central Standard Time,
> BRHSlist@yahoogroups.com writes:
>
> << I am also pleased that the color is almost a perfect match to my
> Scalecoat 50/50 Reefer White/Maintenance of Way Gray mixture >>
>
> Did you use Scalecoat I or II. Jerry Albin
>
>
>
>
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