Gear box failure is such a common occurrence with brass locomotives
or whatever vintage or origin that I now keep in stock a pretty
complete selection of NWSL replacements. Changing them out is fairly
deliberate but usually straightforward process. However, if the
removed driving wheel is not replaced in the exact same position on
the axle, then one has to start from scratch and re-quarter ALL of
the driving wheels (the term "quartering" is in practice inexact
from model to model, as has been pointed out).
The beautiful OMI CB&Q B1 4-8-2 is especially notorious in this
regard, and best practice is to directly replace the gearbox as a
matter of course .
Other inherent and common correctible faults in this locomotive: 1)
Drivers seriously out of gauge. Re-gauge with NWSL Sensipress (or
other small arbor press) and/or a good wheel puller. 2) Springing so
stiff as to be useless. Replacing the springs is not easy inasmuch as
the various NWSL replacement springs have incompatible diameters. 3)
Over time, significant loss of strength of the motor magnets,
resulting in higher working amperage, progressive loss of power, and
significant overheating. These motors are the earliest "can" type
motors (Mashima?), and they have Alnico- (as with Pittman)- rather
than the more stable ceramic magnets that became the later and
current standard. These are beautifully-built motors and worthy of
like-new renewal by remagnetizing. If this cannot be undertaken, then
the only solution is to undertake simple replacement with a new can
motor.
The OMI B1 is a truly fine model, and is a personal favorite. It now
runs like a fine Swiss watch, and it will continue to do so for many
years.
Denny
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Denny S. Anspach, MD
Sacramento, CA
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