The Lifelike PK1000 F3 is setup with a circut board which allows for adding
a DCC decoder. If you are not familiar with DCC wiring it can be confusing.
Unlike old traditional DC set ups the circut board allows for complete
isolation of the motor from the frame, which is necessary for DCC.
You never told us if the headlight was working or not. If the headlight was
working, but the motor was not working, you have a loose or bad connection
to the motor.
Have you installed a DCC decoder? Did you cut the board at all three x's?
Also for DCC I soldered one headlight lead to the P7 pad, by passing the
resistor and diodes to get a brighter light. The 2nd lead was attached to
the FL1 pad. I left the FL2 pad empty.
Look for a stray strand of wire, Lifelike uses a very fine multi strand
wiring. You may have a stray causing a short that was moved when you took of
the shell.
To remove the shell from the frame: 1st remove the front coupler on an A
unit, spead the sides and the frame should fall right out of the body. You
will see mounted on the frame a green board with a number of diodes and one
large resistor. The board is held to the frame by two screws. It easily
lifts, revealing the motor. On either side of the risistor are the wires
going to the motor contacts, marked M+ and M-. At the end of the board
opposite from the bank of diodes are two contacts for track power. The one
near the P7 mark is right hand or red track power, the one near the P6 mark
is the left hand or black track power. You will also notice an additional
left hand or black track power contact at the opposite end of the board
(near the diodes) marked WH1. The remaining contacts marked FL1 & FL2 are
for the lights. All wire contacts on this green board are made with a small
black plastic "cap", which slides over a spade. Each spade has a hole for a
wire. The black plastic "cap" holds the wire in place so it makes contact
with the spade. Try pushing in on each cap to make sure it is tight on each
spade. The caps are also easy to remove, I use a fingernail and pull
straight away from the board.
As to your unit not running, and then later running, I suspect a loose
conection with the motor first and possibly at the board 2nd. I would first
check to to make sure both motor contacts on the board are tight and making
contact (M+ & M-). If you don't trust the plastic "caps" you can solder the
wires to the spades. The motor inself is held in place with a plastic holder
with four "feet" stuck into the bottom of the frame. You can access these
feet by removing the plastic fuel tank cover (it just prys off).
I would also check the contacts from the trucks to the board, esp the red
ones as they connect to the same spade (the wires may be loose).
As for Easter: I assisted the youth at the 7am Sunrise service, ate
breakfast at the Easter breakfast following. Drove to the other church where
I lead the service and sang with the choir at their Easter presentation for
the 9am service. then returned to lead and preach at the 10:30am service.
Then I went home and did my taxes. Very little RR'ing on this Easter.
Doug Harding
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