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Re: [BRHSlist] LikeLike SD-9 to SD-9S?

To: BRHSlist@egroups.com
Subject: Re: [BRHSlist] LikeLike SD-9 to SD-9S?
From: Ed Pavlovic <epav1@w...>
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 21:48:56 -0500
References: <200006260048.SAA17169@m...> <3956AEFF.194A@s...>
Reply-to: epav1@w...
While I haven't bashed an SD-9S, my assumption is that you're interested in
removing the forward fuel tank on the P2K unit. I've done so on an SD7 for
"another" road. There's two ways of doing it, both of which will leave
some of the motor showing in the empty area, just how much depends on which
way you do it.

Both ways first require the complete disassembly of the frame to allow the
forward tank portion of the metal frame to be removed. After you have the
frame cleaned up, you can use the P2K motor, it's just that you discard the
original mounts and set it into silicone caulk. If you look at the unit
from the side, you still have quite a bit of the motor showing, so there is
option number two, which requires more work.

Get a Mashima can motor, A-Line sells them, and you can use either one, they
make a long and a short one. The Mashima motor shafts are a different size
than the P2K, but if you order the nylon flywheel bushings for an Atlas
U33C, you can replace the P2K bushings with the Atlas and the original
flywheels will fit just fine. You'll have to remove some of the weights to
allow room for the larger motor. You'll also have to remove some material
from the frame to allow the motor to sit low enough in the frame to allow
the flywheels to sit at the same height as before. (You can omit this step
and let the motor sit higher, in which case it doesn't show at all below the
frame. You have to remove a lot more material from the weights and discard
the circuit board and rewire the loco. I didn't want to sacrifice pulling
power on my unit just to avoid seeing the bottom of the motor, more on that
later. The universal shafts will not be straight as before, so you may have
more binding in the driveline.) I filled the void in the rear tank where
the original motor was with A-Line "lead putty" to make up for some of the
lost weight and to provide a cradle for the motor, which is again set in
silicone. This method has only about 1/32 to 1/16 of the bottom of the
motor below the bottom of the frame, which shows very little unless you
view it from the side, at track level or below.

marshall wrote:

> To digress, has anyone yet bashed a P2K SD-9 to an SD-9S ?
>
> Marshall


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