John
I really like your scratch built O2A. Is this in HO scale?
A friend of mine makes rows of evenly spaced rivets in HO scale on a
sewing machine with excellent results. He backs up the male die by
putting strips of cardboard under the thin sheet brass or plastic.
When making rivets near an edge, use an oversized sheet, make the
rivets, then trim to the rivet edge to make allowance for the sheet
distortion. Experiment with this, you can get good results.
Terl
-- In CBQ@yahoogroups.com, "jt23_chitown" <onequiknova@...> wrote:
>
>
> OK here goes.
> The original LMB frame was cut right behind the rear driver and a
> new frame extention was fabbed from sheet brass. The cylinders
were
> modified so the boiler would sit lower in the saddle and I
increased
> the angle of the tubes that slope up to the smoke box. (sorry, I'm
> still a laymen when it comes to nameing everything on a steam
> engine). The crosshead guides also had to be lowered so the main
rods
> wouldn't bind as they went through they're cycle. I don't know if
> this is a problem with all the LMB O1A's or a fluke, but there is
no
> way mine would have run the way it was originaly assembled.I then
> added the numberous Nut/bolt/washer castings to the cylinders,
along
> with the check valves and a new saddle flange.
>
> The boiler started out as a piece of 1 1/6" brass tubing which
is
> practicaly dead on in scale to the prototype. The tubing was
notched
> at the firebox and the firebox sides were made from .028 brass
sheet.
> The backhead was also febbed from the same. The reason I chose to
> build an O2 was the fact that it has a straight boiler (no taper),
> which I thought would be much eaiser to model being this is my
first
> time scratch building a steam engine. The smoke box is a 1"
diameter
> tube telescoped into the boiler with two .010 wrappers, the top
layer
> having the rivits embosed. The smokebox front was also built
0f .010
> sheet brass. The 16 smokebox door clamps are each made up of two
> extremly small strips of brass and was a great source of
agravation
> to assemble.
>
> I embose my rivits one at a time with a pin mounted in my pin
vice
> and the work sitting on my self healing mat, which has enough give
in
> it to make the embosing work. It's a time consuming process that I
> don't want to do again. I think I'll buy a NWSL riveter for next
> time. Emboseing rivets in .010 brass takes a bit of force, and
after
> emboseing the what seemed like over 1000 rivits on the tender in
one
> sitting My thumb and fore finger was numb for a week. Besides, the
> riveter gives you a crisper rivet without distorting the
surounding
> area. The only downfall is the price, the riveter with all
theparts
> you need to make rivets cost as more than I have in the whole
model.
>
> The cab is build from .010 brass sheet, along with the tender
shell.
> The tender shell wrapper is one long piece of brass folded at each
> corner to form the shell. I do all the cutting I can with a strong
> pair of kitchen shears. They work well on brass sheet .010" and
> thinner. For thicker material I use my Dremel with a cut off
wheel.
> No matter what process I use, I aways cut a bit off the line and
> finish the cut with jewelers files. Inside cuts like the cab
windows
> are made by drilling multipal holes inside the layout lines and
then
> finished with lots of filing.
>
> The sand and axilary dome were turned from brass rod. I don't own
a
> lathe so I chuck a piece of the brass rod into a variable speed
drill
> and spin the piece while shaping it with a cut off wheel chucked
into
> my Dremel. once I get it close I finish with files and then fine
> sandpaper. The steam dome is from the LMB O1A reshaped the same
way
> as above.
>
> Most of the castings are from Precision scale, Cary and Cal
Scale.
> It's repowered with an Ajin gearbox and Sagami (sp?) can motor.
>
> John.
>
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