Grice Dale-MGI1833 <dgrice@motorola.com>
Subject: RE:
Re: regearing an Oriental Ltd 282, Dale Grice writes-
>I used a NWSL 139-6 gearbox. However, you may want to verify input shaft
>size. NWSL has a good web site also.
>I also used the existing motor and then some model aircraft fuel line tubing
>for the flexible drive shaft.
>I have experimented with NWSL universals and Hobby town universals in brass
>repowering projects. However with floating gearboxes that can rotate forward
>and back I have had mixed success.
>My preferred method is to use a torque arm. A motor mounting plate is
>attached to the gearbox and then attached loosely using a spring and screw
>that ties the arm to the frame on the motor end. I have not implemented this
>arrangement on the NWSL gearbox as the gearbox is plastic and I have been
>concerned with stripping the screws out that I would use to mount the torque
>arm to the gearbox.
I have faced these same issues in a number of repowering/regearing
projects. I have most commonly "locked" the gearbox from rotating
back and forth by the use of a simple length of piano wire with a
right angle "hook" on one end, and a loop on the other. The loop end
is usually fastened down by the same screw that commonly holds down
the valve gear hanger (on most brass engines), while the hook end
hooks into a drilled hole on the top of the gear box.
There are other simple "tethering" solutions. When all fails, try
Silastic R-C fuel tubing as a coupler instead of universal joints..
This super-supple tubing has almost none of the faults of the old
rubber/ Neoprene tubing with which we have so familiar over the
years. It does not take a set, and if it is carefully applied, it has
good concentricity and adequate strength.
DEnny
--
Denny S. Anspach, MD
Sacramento
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