Friends, the proper NWSL replacement gearbox is #139-6, single idler
1:28 for 3mm axle. The molds for this particular gearbox housing wore
so that some of the cutouts for the axle are skewed ( i.e. the
mounted gearbox will not be 90ยบ square to the axle). They have made
an entirely new mold, but occasionally you will be purchasing the
older housing as new old-stock. If the cutouts are skewed, call NWSL
and they will send you a new one. If not skewed, they are OK to use
as is.
The motor is either a 20 or 22 X 30 mm. (I cannot recall and cannot
measure without dismantling the locomotive). In any case, virtually
all can motors are measured in this standard way (diameter vs.
length, not including shafts), so that if replacement is required,
any good can motor with the measurements made on site will work OK.
Because of outstanding service, I use NWSL exclusively in this
regard. The shaft size is 2.4mm. 2.0mm shafting will work with an
adapter, of course.
The original motor in my locomotive (and presumably in yours as well)
is a beautiful Mashima with a brushed or machined dark blue case.
This is a very good early can motor with Alnico, rather than ceramic
magnets. It is very possible that the Alnico magnets may have lost
strength. You can tell this when operating currents are excessively
high (i.e. 0.4-.5 amps or more, and with increasing operation, the
motor not only heats up, but also motor response and speeds
diminish). If so, you can replace the motor, or, if you so wish you
can box up the original motor and send it to me (with a self
addressed stamped label for return), and I will remagnetize it for
you, if that is possible (after remagnetizing mine, the operating
current dropped to 0.2 amp, and locomotive positively "perked up" all
around). Contact me first with a description of your motor
dimensions, however.
I replace the original vinyl rubber shaft connector tubing (which had
become ossified) with silicone rubber aircraft fuel tubing
(obtainable at R-C hobby stores). This tubing has no "memory", is
extremely supple, and grasps firmly onto the shafts.
You can instead also install a more sophisticated NWSL universal
joint connector, if you wish, but you will have to stabilize the gear
box with some sort of "torque arm" or bracket to prevent the box from
automatically rotating forward and pulling the joint apart. This is
the method that I used because of at least the theoretical advantage
of the torque arm allowing the energy ordinarily being expended by
the motor to hold the gearbox in place with the tubing to be instead
freed to operate the locomotive. Your choice! Either works fine.
Denny
Denny S. Anspach, MD
Sacramento, California
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